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Post Info TOPIC: Broken Torsion Bar! aka Sway Bar - How to fix without having to replace! Suspension


$y$Op

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Broken Torsion Bar! aka Sway Bar - How to fix without having to replace! Suspension
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Everyone knows that a broken Torsion bar not only makes a lot of noise, but it also causes the vehicle to wander and is not very safe to drive.

The sway bar job while listed as only being a two hour job in the book is one of them jobs that is confused with the term "Torsion Bar". To many the Torsion bar is the front "Sway Bar". However with the W126 front suspension this bar also centers the caster, as each end protrudes thru the upper control arm keeping the hub and front suspension from moving forwards. It is really scary to drive a vehicle with a broken Torsion bar and you can kiss control goodbye.

The job that is quoted in many popular labor time guides as "Sway Bar" replacement reffers to the REAR sway bar. Since the rear bar does not provide any sort of stabalizing for the caster movement of the suspension it is aptly named the "Sway Bar" and only calls for 1.8 labor hours to replace.

Anyone making the mistake of looking up book time to replace the Torsion bar using the term Sway Bar will soon learn that this is not the "Term" to be mixing up. To replace a torsion bar it could take upwards of 20 labor hours and you must basiclly pull everything out of the firewall area to gain access.  Even then it is an angle game getting it out and trying to get the new one in. I usually pull them when stripping a car and have the fenders off. It helps to have the fenders and the hood off for this job but is not nessisary. If its your first time doing a sway bar do yourself a favor and cut the sway bar in half right in the middle. This makes removal much easier. Just know that it will take some finess to work the new one back in there. Dont forget you must pull out the mono-valve and auxilary pump, plus the wire harness, battery tray, brake booster, ABS computer and all them other componets that sit there in-between the firewalls.

The best way to fix a broken sway bar is to weld on new ends. There are repair kits sold that allow you to simply cut back the sway bar, and then weld on another male adapter. This no doubt saves a lot of time and money but the only down side is you have to have a welder and be comfortable with welding. While we have a welder and love to weld, some people may prefer just replacing the entire sway bar.

-- Edited by Administrator at 02:20, 2008-10-24

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$y$Op

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RE: Broken Torsion/Swar Bar! How to fix without having to replace!
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Well finally we purchased one of these links. They are pretty expensive too! At almost $200 per unit they can save you a lot of money. With the replacement time for the Torsion bar at close to 20 labor hours, and the cost of a new torsion bar a little over $400 it doesnt take long to realize the savings.

We are starting to stock these items for sale. If you would like to buy one, or have one installed please e-mail sales@benzworld.us

All things considering the repair takes under an hour. The fit of the replacement end is quite nice. The unit is made of a stainless steel shaft with grade 8 hardware. Even the bushings are German.

When I installed the item I was amazed at how well it all went back together.

Here are some phoes.







Here are some shots "After the repair"







After all was said and done the vehicle rides well. It will need an alignment after this process, however all things considering it save the guy well over $1000!!



-- Edited by Administrator at 23:21, 2008-10-11

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$y$Op

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Posts: 313
Date:
Broken Torsion Bar! aka Sway Bar - How to fix without having to replace! Suspension
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HOW TO INSTALL THE TORSION BAR SAVER

Installing the torsion bar saver is a one shot deal. Install it the wrong way and you will be replacing that torsion bar after all. We found the instructions that many, including the manufature to be lacking. Here we will show photos and also give tips that can help you avoid a mis-hap.

(1) Step one requires examination of the break. Usually the upper control arm mount on the sway bar will have broken off and be completly missing. If by some odd reason it is still there remove the old bolt that attaches the torsion bar to the upper control arm. Most broken sway bars should look like the "Before" photos earlier in this thread.

(2) Remove the large washer and bushings from torsion bar end. Note that the washer may be tight and have to be pounded on. It may also apper to be part of the sway bar, but its not. Just a few wacks with a hammer should allow it to come off.

(3) The manufacture recomends cutting the torsion bar approximately 1/2 inch from the thin section. What this means is measure from the point where the sway bar gets thick 1/2 inch. Mark by wrapping tape around the bar. USE A CUT OFF WHEEL AND DIE GRINDER TO CUT SWAY BAR! You will need a nice straight clean cut for the new end to slide over. Once the sway bar has been cut back 1/2 inch remove the tape and clean/prep the surface area two inches in preporation for welinding. Remember clean metal will weld much better than metal with paint or rust.

(4) After cleaning the area install the torsion bar saver. Do this by installing the washer as shown in the photos with one of the rubber busings. I have found that the entire hub will easily move forward at this point. Slide the front part of the torsion bar saver thru the hole in the upper control arm to get the clearance to bring the back part over the torsion bar. Be sure that once the torsion bar save is on you tap it with a hammer to ensure it is fully bottomed out prior to welding. Do not install the outside busing, washer or bolt until AFTER you have welded.

(5) With a nice clean weld area, and the torsion bar fully installed make your welds. Remember this needs to be done WELL. Using a 220 welder at the proper settings will ensure a beautiful weld. Tack in place at first, then go around. Photos will show the best place to place the ground lead. Be sure to cool the unit with water right after since you do not want to melt the inner bushing.

(6) Install the outer bushing, washer and nut. Tighten and you are done. Paint over the welds to keep rust down.

These instructions are about the best out there. The ones offered by the manufacture of this part are lacking many details and they offer NO PHOTOS. We feel that our write up should give more insight into this process as you only get one shot at this type of repair.

Good luck and feel free to call us  734-250-4449  for help if you have purchased this item from us.

WE ALSO SELL NEW AND USED PARTS FOR 1986-1991 MERCEDES-BENZ W126 SEDAN AND COUPE. PLEASE E-MAIL SALES@BENZWORLD.US OR CALL US (734)250-4449

REASONABLE PRICES AND A HUGE SELECTION.



-- Edited by SELLC on Tuesday 19th of January 2010 11:19:46 AM

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