You see them in the magazines, the way overpriced self aligning roller rocker arms that have little washers on the ends of the roller tip to keep it centered on the stem of the valve.While I find it funny that people would rather have some small washer rather than a thick 1/4 piece of steel guiding their valves, I can only think that some people just like to spend money.
I have found by and large that using guide plates with roller rocker arms is about the best bet in terms of cost and reliability. While the roller rockers with guides are known to have that traditional roller rocker sound they don't seem to be any louder than the self aligning ones for big $$.
There is always the shaft mounted rocker arms at an astronomical cost, but really I don't see many people going out of pocket $1200-1800 parts and labor for them. Not to mention they require very expensive valve covers. I do think that a shaft mounted rocker would add a marked improvement on valve train stability however I would still use guides.
What is everyone else running? For the record it is VERY DANGEROUS to run standard roller rocker arms without valve guides. The stamped steel units are an exception to the rule as they have stamped grooves to lock them in place on the valve stem, but considering the surface is flat and non-rolling on a stamped rocker arm its not really going to have the same effect as a rolling bearing in terms of cocking. The 1/4 turn generally given to adjust the valves is to compensate for the flex of a stamped steel arm. Try that with a roller rocker and you are likely to have a valve not close all the way!
I throw away stamped steel rocker arms. They were cheap to make so GM run with them and really they wear out and get louder than the roller rockers anyway.
I went with the shaft type simply because it's a bolt straight on affair, though not knowing if the 1:65 or 1:60 ratio could be had with this type for American made engines. Anyhow, it all depends on the motor you've got anyway, since if you have a Ford Cleveland for instance ( or a Big block Chev ), you have no choice in the matter, as you can't use the shaft-type since the valves are cantered, & you have to use guide-plates with new & hardened push-rods as-well etc etc. Not a big fan at all of the Cleveland, even if they can produce large HP numbers...-(For a limited time LOL) ! Also, if you don't use hardened push-rods with the guide-plates, your original push-rods will last about 2-hours or less before they thin-out & bend, only to leave nasty shavings of themselves in your engines sump LOL .
Here in the land of Oz, our Holden V-8's were quite a nicely thought-out bit of engine that combined the best design elements of all the Big-3 American designed V-8's, whilst still managing to remain original. Anyhow, you could get shaft-type roller-rockers with 1:65 ratio, that will fit under the original valve-covers when using hydraulic grind cams etc etc, & the whole job to fit everything-up takes under 1-hour if you're ready to go with tools & parts. I must say here though, that the "shaft" is really only common to an engines cylinder, or a pair of valves rather, & does not run the length of the cylinder bank. The results from using these items are incredible, especially for the longevity of valve guides, & especially camshafts. Really good gear.
Also, I'm pretty sure that the brand Iskenderian (& others), actually import & re-package their roller-rockers from a manufacturer here in Melbourne Australia, that's known down here as "Yella Terra" performance etc etc. Great gear, highly recommended !
Cheers,
Rastus
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Nope.... No rocker arms in your Saturn... Just what I call buttons (lifters).
Similar to the GM Quad4 engine too, and a hand full of others that use that design where the lifter sets directly on top of the valve. No rocker arms for you PowerStroker LOL! Just camshafts if you want more lift.
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