So having had the knuckle already removed on a 2008 Honda Odyssey, and having no success jigging it up in my press, I purchased that OTC Grappler as mentioned above and documented my first time using the tool. I'll start with my opinion of the OTC Grappler, which is that the tool is up to the OTC standards one would expect, however I was heartbroken to see once it arrived that the kit is made in China. I thought OTC did most of their stuff in the USA, but after having used it I am satisfied with the hardness and quality so far, but this is just one use. I'll be sure to keep you updated as time goes on but check out this tool in action.

First off, this tool is not for someone in a hurry that has never used it PERIOD - having pressed countless wheel bearing in with a shop press I can tell you that this tool is pretty nifty and you must make sure to oil it every use as that is VERY important. My first go around I was in a hurry and got a little frustrated with getting familiar with all the adapters. This kit allows you to do the following,

1) Remove the hub

2) Press the bearing out

3) Press the new bearing in

and finally,

4) Press the hub back into the knuckle with the newly installed bearing.

All of this can be done with the knuckle still attached to the vehicle, but in this case I had already had the knuckle out trying unsuccessfully to replace the bearing with a press. I am sure with enough jiggery I could have gotten it to work in the press as I do the rest, but something about this particular job just would not jig up right and I didn't want to take a chance with the bearings getting messed up. 

The kit claims to service all wheel bearings up to 2009, but you can mix and match and make your own combos. In fact, for this job I favored the bigger spacer than what was called for when removing the hub. But other than that, the instructions they give you does save time. This is what it looks like, and this book will be your bible until you get used to all the sizes and numbers.

This is pretty much what you will do for any vehicle specific job you're working on unless it's not in the book. At that point I guess you would have to go custom and combine what you can to make whatever you're doing work, but the book is well over an inch thick and I think it's got just about all your common vehicles in there save for the ultra exotics.

This little thing here is the bearing and is very important to keep well oiled at all times

This little bearing thing above is used almost all the time, pretty much.

Now I did both videos and images and I am going to blend them in here to give better perspective of this particular job as it pertains to MY 2008 Honda Odyssey. First step now that I have gotten all my adapters together to "Remove the bearing hub", is to assemble the unit and place it on the hub assembly like so,

Now that the hub is out, naturally you have to unbolt the shield and remove the lock-ring. You also may try and remove the ABS Sensor but odds are if you're in the rustbelt states, it's going to have rusted that plastic sensor into the housing and you won't be able to get them out without damage. They are pretty inexpensive, $19 each incase they will not release. Mine would not release and even had to be chiseled out upon being broken off flush! Even though the sensor is plastic, the rust still locks it in there.

Now it's on to removal of the bearing itself.

Now that was pretty easy, I must admit. Can't wait to try it on the car tomorrow when I do the other side. That being said, now the bearing is removed. It's time to install the new bearing which is also a breeze using this tool. Each transfer or removal requires different plates and cones and in between you want to oil - oil - oil as I think it would be REALLY bad for this tool to run dry and it does get warm at times. Best to keep an oil can near by if you want your tool to last, at least in my opinion.

Here is how the bearing gets installed with this tool

It does a real nice job too! Now you just reinstall your clip and install your dust shield! Then get out your adapters to re-install the hub into the knuckle that now has a new bearing installed. This process was super easy too, and I decided to just enjoy this last step myself rather than make a video, but I did take a photo.

And that was it! All done!

As I mentioned I am going to do this exact same job once more while the whole assembly is on the car. It was almost a pain to work with this kit without something holding the knuckle and I decided to put it in a vice as it was already removed from the vehicle anyway. I'll post some photos of the exact same job done with everything still attached to the vehicle now that I am feeling brave.

All in all, it's and expensive kit at over $500 but it appears to be good old OTC quality... I was pleased, and while I pretty much did this job for free when you take into account the cost of the tool, it should start earning me some rewards on the next ones. I usually dreaded having to screw around with press in bearings before, but now I think this might just be the next best thing since the OTC ball joint press! Which I still use all the time also!

I'll have to check the actual production date on the kit... Quite possible it was produced back in the Obama Administration! LOL

Sweet!

I'd imagine someone probably only used it once to do their car and sold it to offset the cost of having it done at a repair shop.

Believe it or not, sealed wheel bearings on some vehicles are pretty good money at over $500 per side. Someone needing two

could have saved $600-$800 on the job by selling off the tool after they were done.

It takes a little time to get used to, but works great once you do. One thing I learned early on is to make sure it's centered and

stays that way or it will rub the spline of the tool into the spline of the axle hub. Other than that, it's a nice tool to have.

Mine paid for itself the first job, although I pretty much did that job for nothing. If anything it ensures the jobs stay away too

as I'll be damned if I haven't seen another press in bearing since! LOL  

I think the reason they don't use Torrington bearings is due to the amount of load that this unit exerts and the risk that the Torrington bearing could explode. I think that is why they used the bearing design that they did. Torrington bearings are nice in some situations but not usually when there is a large amount of force. Again, that is just my opinion.

What is not an opinion is the fact I just had an OTC axle press just crap the bed on me, on a Mercury Milan of all things! Now I am curious how I am going to get it warrantied if I can't even reach OTC to find out if one of their products is correct for my application. Can't look down too hard on OTC though because the same axle broke my harbor freight 20 ton press! Pictures to follow!

The hub grappler 6575 has been great so far, except for that one sleeve - which I still just use on Fords as it has mushroomed to a perfect fit. lol, but it's just a matter of time before it splits I am sure - maybe not. Been using the heck out of that OTC grappler lately as the dealership is getting close to $800 per bearing if the hub is welded to the axle and the spindle has to come off. 

Yo,

After re-reading through the whole thread, I'd nearly say that it may have been the use of your impact-gun that caused the woes Stellar...Should the thread have been OK whilst installing the bearing, once the bearing had seated, there may have been a few seconds of continued impacting, & that's where the thread-rod will stretch, & the nut will chew-off the thread little-by-little, since it's now a different pitch with each hammer impact. But installing a new bearing could also be done by hand, or at least the last-little-bit, & possibly save the thread-rod next-time-around...Gently swinging a breaker-bar next time may prove longer tool-life perhaps.

But time is $$$, & warranty is warranty. I'd be disappointed if they didn't replace it. And we all know how much you like to fight lol !

Also, CRC make "white lithium grease" in a spray can, & I'd consider using this stuff as lube, as it doesn't freeze, drip, or wash-off, & leaves a nice thin coating that lasts a long time. You can use this stuff on almost anything, & it doesn't stink / smell.