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Post Info TOPIC: Got a new toy! OTC 6575 Hub Grappler


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Got a new toy! OTC 6575 Hub Grappler


Well, just laid down $500 so I don't have to bust my balls as hard to do these press in wheel bearings that keep coming in... Last time around I got the OTC slide hammer with attachments to pull the hubs out of the knuckles, but finally got a hub that is nearly impossible to jig in my 20 ton press. So what do I do? Go out and buy the most bad a$$ OTC hub grappler on the market! LOL

Literally just picked it up and had to make a post! Keeping my fingers crossed it works good, I'll update the thread later with more photos.



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So having had the knuckle already removed on a 2008 Honda Odyssey, and having no success jigging it up in my press, I purchased that OTC Grappler as mentioned above and documented my first time using the tool. I'll start with my opinion of the OTC Grappler, which is that the tool is up to the OTC standards one would expect, however I was heartbroken to see once it arrived that the kit is made in China. I thought OTC did most of their stuff in the USA, but after having used it I am satisfied with the hardness and quality so far, but this is just one use. I'll be sure to keep you updated as time goes on but check out this tool in action.

First off, this tool is not for someone in a hurry that has never used it PERIOD - having pressed countless wheel bearing in with a shop press I can tell you that this tool is pretty nifty and you must make sure to oil it every use as that is VERY important. My first go around I was in a hurry and got a little frustrated with getting familiar with all the adapters. This kit allows you to do the following,

1) Remove the hub

2) Press the bearing out

3) Press the new bearing in

and finally,

4) Press the hub back into the knuckle with the newly installed bearing.

All of this can be done with the knuckle still attached to the vehicle, but in this case I had already had the knuckle out trying unsuccessfully to replace the bearing with a press. I am sure with enough jiggery I could have gotten it to work in the press as I do the rest, but something about this particular job just would not jig up right and I didn't want to take a chance with the bearings getting messed up. 

The kit claims to service all wheel bearings up to 2009, but you can mix and match and make your own combos. In fact, for this job I favored the bigger spacer than what was called for when removing the hub. But other than that, the instructions they give you does save time. This is what it looks like, and this book will be your bible until you get used to all the sizes and numbers.

This is pretty much what you will do for any vehicle specific job you're working on unless it's not in the book. At that point I guess you would have to go custom and combine what you can to make whatever you're doing work, but the book is well over an inch thick and I think it's got just about all your common vehicles in there save for the ultra exotics.

This little thing here is the bearing and is very important to keep well oiled at all times

This little bearing thing above is used almost all the time, pretty much.

Now I did both videos and images and I am going to blend them in here to give better perspective of this particular job as it pertains to MY 2008 Honda Odyssey. First step now that I have gotten all my adapters together to "Remove the bearing hub", is to assemble the unit and place it on the hub assembly like so,

Now that the hub is out, naturally you have to unbolt the shield and remove the lock-ring. You also may try and remove the ABS Sensor but odds are if you're in the rustbelt states, it's going to have rusted that plastic sensor into the housing and you won't be able to get them out without damage. They are pretty inexpensive, $19 each incase they will not release. Mine would not release and even had to be chiseled out upon being broken off flush! Even though the sensor is plastic, the rust still locks it in there.

Now it's on to removal of the bearing itself.

Now that was pretty easy, I must admit. Can't wait to try it on the car tomorrow when I do the other side. That being said, now the bearing is removed. It's time to install the new bearing which is also a breeze using this tool. Each transfer or removal requires different plates and cones and in between you want to oil - oil - oil as I think it would be REALLY bad for this tool to run dry and it does get warm at times. Best to keep an oil can near by if you want your tool to last, at least in my opinion.

Here is how the bearing gets installed with this tool

It does a real nice job too! Now you just reinstall your clip and install your dust shield! Then get out your adapters to re-install the hub into the knuckle that now has a new bearing installed. This process was super easy too, and I decided to just enjoy this last step myself rather than make a video, but I did take a photo.

And that was it! All done!

As I mentioned I am going to do this exact same job once more while the whole assembly is on the car. It was almost a pain to work with this kit without something holding the knuckle and I decided to put it in a vice as it was already removed from the vehicle anyway. I'll post some photos of the exact same job done with everything still attached to the vehicle now that I am feeling brave.

All in all, it's and expensive kit at over $500 but it appears to be good old OTC quality... I was pleased, and while I pretty much did this job for free when you take into account the cost of the tool, it should start earning me some rewards on the next ones. I usually dreaded having to screw around with press in bearings before, but now I think this might just be the next best thing since the OTC ball joint press! Which I still use all the time also!

 



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Cool post ! And very cool new tool !!!

I don't suppose the OTC Grappler can help remove Stoma from the outer-rim & reinstall his membership here ?...

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OOOOhhhh nice, Powerstroker is jealous!

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Thanks PowerStroker, it was a pretty big expense for me considering that I have pressed them in for decades now... I will admit it took even less time while the knuckle was still on the vehicle but I had to use two hands so I really couldn't get any videos. 

I give the tool a thumbs up, with the only problem being that it is made in China... You would think a tool like this would be made in the USA, especially given the price!



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As long as QC is up-to-standards set, it shouldn't really matter where the products made...

It just means plenty of folks in the US-of-A are out-of-a-job, where they could have continued being an on-going American concern. I thought Mr.Trump was out to fix this problem, & make America great again ?....I guess he meant American Wall St Banks, Russia, & his own back pocket....

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Yeah what's up with the China thing? OTC stands for Owatona Tool Company, as in Owatona Minnesota. Their headquarters is about 45 min South of me. They actually make most of the Ford Rotunda tools that fill my dealership's tool room.

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I'll have to check the actual production date on the kit... Quite possible it was produced back in the Obama Administration! LOL



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Well I'm not jealous anymore because I just ordered one of these for myself. I decided this would be more useful to me than the Snap On ball joint press when I already have the OTC one. Found my Hub Grappler on Ebay for a special deal of $340 because the plastic box had some damage, otherwise it's a brand new kit. Can't wait for it to show up.

I've been trying to get all of my tool purchases done that I can forsee because I'm itemizing deductions on my taxes this year but probably not next year. I also bought a lithium jump pack to replace my old JNK 660 clunker that has made my life suck for the last 10 or so years.

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Sweet!

I'd imagine someone probably only used it once to do their car and sold it to offset the cost of having it done at a repair shop.

Believe it or not, sealed wheel bearings on some vehicles are pretty good money at over $500 per side. Someone needing two

could have saved $600-$800 on the job by selling off the tool after they were done.

 

It takes a little time to get used to, but works great once you do. One thing I learned early on is to make sure it's centered and

stays that way or it will rub the spline of the tool into the spline of the axle hub. Other than that, it's a nice tool to have.

Mine paid for itself the first job, although I pretty much did that job for nothing. If anything it ensures the jobs stay away too

as I'll be damned if I haven't seen another press in bearing since! LOL  



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PowerStroker wrote:

Well I'm not jealous anymore because I just ordered one of these for myself. I decided this would be more useful to me than the Snap On ball joint press when I already have the OTC one. Found my Hub Grappler on Ebay for a special deal of $340 because the plastic box had some damage, otherwise it's a brand new kit. Can't wait for it to show up.

I've been trying to get all of my tool purchases done that I can forsee because I'm itemizing deductions on my taxes this year but probably not next year. I also bought a lithium jump pack to replace my old JNK 660 clunker that has made my life suck for the last 10 or so years.


 I am finally getting my 2nd job in this week for the hub grappler. Was wondering if you have used it any?

I had really good luck on the Honda with this tool, but now I got a Toyota coming in and I am excited to give it a whirl. Just figured I'd ask you incase you had any other pointers outside the ones I mentioned above.



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I've used it once and it worked great once I figured out how to set it up. I don't do a whole lot of these style bearings, but I'm really glad I have this in my arsenal.

I did get a roller style thrust bearing for it to help reduce some of the binding.

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It does take awhile to get all the adapters in order but it worked wonders for me. I'll try and take some photos of the Toyota if it doesn't kick my butt too bad.

Like the idea of roller bearings but I have been just using a liberal amount of power steering fluid on the provided setup and all has been well... no doubt it could be better with roller bearings.. Does it make a real big difference that you noticed?



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I feel like it puts less strain on it.

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Fair enough, I just keep the included bearing assembly well lubed before each press or pull.

Recently did front wheel bearings on a 2008 Ford Escape and noticed that one of the big round tubes was not a perfect fit and actually mushroomed it a bit! I am very curious how the hell you even get in contact with OTC as I have sent them countless messages inquiring about their ball joint press without any response! I have also noticed that in some of the diagrams in the books they are not always accurate and you must find a more suitable alternative. I always want to document this but am in too much of a hurry to finish the job but I know for a fact, on the 2008 Escape it will mushroom the cup used when extracting the bearing. 

Anyone with any information on how to actually contact OTC where youre not leaving a message that never gets returned, please let me know. I have a mushroomed cup I want warrantied and I have some questions about their ball joint press. 

I wonder if OTC is actually owned by a Chinese company now, and not just having their tools made in China. 



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I think the reason they don't use Torrington bearings is due to the amount of load that this unit exerts and the risk that the Torrington bearing could explode. I think that is why they used the bearing design that they did. Torrington bearings are nice in some situations but not usually when there is a large amount of force. Again, that is just my opinion.

What is not an opinion is the fact I just had an OTC axle press just crap the bed on me, on a Mercury Milan of all things! Now I am curious how I am going to get it warrantied if I can't even reach OTC to find out if one of their products is correct for my application. Can't look down too hard on OTC though because the same axle broke my harbor freight 20 ton press! Pictures to follow!

The hub grappler 6575 has been great so far, except for that one sleeve - which I still just use on Fords as it has mushroomed to a perfect fit. lol, but it's just a matter of time before it splits I am sure - maybe not. Been using the heck out of that OTC grappler lately as the dealership is getting close to $800 per bearing if the hub is welded to the axle and the spindle has to come off. 



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Well, almost two years in and the main shaft and nut have finally given up the ghost! Totally siezed up on the shaft removing a bearing from a Lincoln Zephyr! And this is oiling the threads and bearings before each and every extraction or installation!

I must admit I have done quite a few bearings in this past two years but now it's time for OTC to step up and warranty the three pieces that have failed. 

Today is Sunday but I'll be all over them like stink on shit come tomorrow! LOL, hoping my suppler of the tool will be able to help in the event my endeavors are as unfruitful as they were when inquiring about the applications of their master ball joint press.



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Kaboom!

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I have some information for OTC, seems that OTC is now owned by Bosch (and has been since 2013!)! The technical support number should you need help with this kit is 1-800-533-6127.

I have been informed by an OTC representative to send in a photo of the damaged part(s) to tech@otctools.com and it will be considered for warranty. I will be taking the photos and sending them in right after this post and I will also post photos here as well.

I will keep the thread updated too and let everyone know how the warranty process went since the OTC kit 6575 has a lifetime warranty.

Feeling a lot better about OTC right now.



-- Edited by SELLC on Monday 6th of May 2019 07:56:34 PM

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Used mine yesterday on a 2010 Explorer rear wheel bearing - which sucks because of the e-brake backing plate that gets in the way when using a hydraulic press, but the Hub Grappler worked awesome.

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SWEET! Nothing better than having a tool to help make an otherwise PITA job into something gravy!

I am getting on my 3rd threaded compression rod! Although I must admit that my unit is used, or at least was used very heavy for quite some time. 

I cringe to think what OTC / BOSCH is going to say this time around but they took good care of me the 1st time! Sent one right out!

image004.jpg

What kind of oil are you using on the shaft? I tried both engine oil and also transmission fluid... but neither have prevented the rod damage over time. I usually request a new nut when I warranty the threaded rod too... just because.

I'll let you know how warranty #2 goes.



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I sprayed mine with copper anti-seize, but I've only used it 3 or 4 times so we shall see.

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Wow Stellar...

That's amazing to see that damage to the thread.

Good luck with the warranty.

* I'd guess that you had shyte on the thread, as only "one" thread appears damaged, where in practice, all the threads available in the nut share-the-load.

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Yo,

After re-reading through the whole thread, I'd nearly say that it may have been the use of your impact-gun that caused the woes Stellar...Should the thread have been OK whilst installing the bearing, once the bearing had seated, there may have been a few seconds of continued impacting, & that's where the thread-rod will stretch, & the nut will chew-off the thread little-by-little, since it's now a different pitch with each hammer impact. But installing a new bearing could also be done by hand, or at least the last-little-bit, & possibly save the thread-rod next-time-around...Gently swinging a breaker-bar next time may prove longer tool-life perhaps.

But time is $$$, & warranty is warranty. I'd be disappointed if they didn't replace it. And we all know how much you like to fight lol !

Also, CRC make "white lithium grease" in a spray can, & I'd consider using this stuff as lube, as it doesn't freeze, drip, or wash-off, & leaves a nice thin coating that lasts a long time. You can use this stuff on almost anything, & it doesn't stink / smell.



-- Edited by Rastus on Saturday 18th of February 2023 05:02:43 PM

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The unit still works, but it's chipping... what can I say... the instructions say to just use oil!

confuse



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Use a spanner to turn the nut, stop, & tap-gently on the tool with a plastic mallet every 1/8 to 1/4 turn, until the bearing begins to free & move.

Don't use your impact gun, or you'll keep breaking-off the thread.

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okay... it's just chipping, not stripping... I haven't bothered to even request a replacement yet, but I should...

I recently had a Volvo come in with an odd configuration where the tool was not strong enough to pop the bearing... I ended up having to jig the knuckle on the press! 

But the one thing that was nice about still having the kit was being able to use the different size adapter plates to press the new bearings in with the 20 TON bench press.

IMG_1723.jpeg

IMG_1732.jpeg

 

IMG_1736.jpeg

IMG_1738.jpeg

IMG_1744.jpeg

 



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Very nice :) !!!

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