Electric Power Tools? Any suggestions? - Auto-Trend Repairs and Service Information Forums

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

Electric Power Tools? Any suggestions?

PowerStroker · UNSTOPPABLE!

I have Milwukee stuff. I use my 1/4 Milwaukee ratchet several times per day and love it. I never use my 1/4 air ratchet anymore... At some point I'll probably pick up the 3/8 one too.

Last year I was in the market for a chainsaw and was almost ready to pull the trigger on a 2 stroke Echo, but ended up getting the Milwaukee electric one. I'm glad I did, now I never have to worry about gas going stale, pull rope breaking, or carb diaphragms drying out, I just slam a battery in it and push the button. It's quiet too, and the equivalent of a 40cc gas one which is perfect for home use in most cases.

At this point I have 2 Milwaukee drills, an impact driver, the chainsaw, their cordless sawzall, air ratchet, cordless weed whip and pole saw with an assortment of 12v and 18v red lithium batteries and a rapid charger for home and standard one for work. Oh, and almost forgot, I have their nicest radio which I use for Pandora in the garage at home, the sound quality is awesome.

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

The "new wave" of electric-power-tools is just that, as passing fad perhaps... They are convenient from a certain POV, but don't doubt that when the battery someday fails, ( and it will fail ) you won't be able to replace it, since the "new model" has a different battery, & won't fit up.

You're also in debt to have to purchase a 2nd battery, so that you can have one always on charge. And pricing here in Oz is quite expensive on this stuff.

The folks I recently worked with were all generally using Milwaukee

I call a "red-flag" on this stuff personally.

I wouldn't bother at all should you already own & use an air-compressor & have air-tools. And an air-compressor re-fills in minutes, whilst a battery takes hours to recharge.

* If it has to be electric, I'd get the "plug-in-the-wall-power-socket" variety every-time...You can get a 20-meter electric extension chord for around $10:00 here in Oz...How much does a battery for the "new wave" electric tools cost ?...And something running on 240-volts or 110-volts is going to crank-out more power than a battery-pack 18-volt system, though they get the job done, at a price...

-- Edited by Rastus on Friday 11th of February 2022 04:40:21 PM

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

PowerStroker wrote:
I have Milwukee stuff. I use my 1/4 Milwaukee ratchet several times per day and love it. I never use my 1/4 air ratchet anymore... At some point I'll probably pick up the 3/8 one too.

Last year I was in the market for a chainsaw and was almost ready to pull the trigger on a 2 stroke Echo, but ended up getting the Milwaukee electric one. I'm glad I did, now I never have to worry about gas going stale, pull rope breaking, or carb diaphragms drying out, I just slam a battery in it and push the button. It's quiet too, and the equivalent of a 40cc gas one which is perfect for home use in most cases.

At this point I have 2 Milwaukee drills, an impact driver, the chainsaw, their cordless sawzall, air ratchet, cordless weed whip and pole saw with an assortment of 12v and 18v red lithium batteries and a rapid charger for home and standard one for work. Oh, and almost forgot, I have their nicest radio which I use for Pandora in the garage at home, the sound quality is awesome.

Milwaukee is what the kid uses too... he had them here for a few months and I was rather impressed with the performance! Seemed even a little better than my DeWalt but that might have just been because it had red accents and that ever so cool "red lithium" name! LOL, it sort of makes you think of the "Red Matter" from the Star Trek movie! LOL

I agree 100% on the electric chainsaw too! Had the exact same thing happen where I needed one and with my rebates and card membership points I got a Craftsman electric (wall plug in with extension cord style) for under $50! It's all that I need for cutting up fallen limbs and logs alike! Plus just like you said, I plug it in and no BS... I rather miss the noise, but I'm sure my neighbors don't. There is no doubt a lumber-jack or someone getting up in a tree will want gas powered, but I'm no lumberjack and I'm not cutting down any big trees! I have no doubts my electric one would cut down a small tree... but a big one would be more than it could handle...

Most of my stuff is DeWalt because I purchased with the intention of using it for home repairs and stuff, but I really got to liking the electric mini-impact and was finding myself using it whenever I could. The kid took his to his new job... once I got him certified he was off making the big bucks... there is no loyalty in the business!

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

Rastus wrote:
The "new wave" of electric-power-tools is just that, as passing fad perhaps... They are convenient from a certain POV, but don't doubt that when the battery someday fails, ( and it will fail ) you won't be able to replace it, since the "new model" has a different battery, & won't fit up.

You're also in debt to have to purchase a 2nd battery, so that you can have one always on charge. And pricing here in Oz is quite expensive on this stuff.

The folks I recently worked with were all generally using Milwaukee

I call a "red-flag" on this stuff personally.

I wouldn't bother at all should you already own & use an air-compressor & have air-tools. And an air-compressor re-fills in minutes, whilst a battery takes hours to recharge.

* If it has to be electric, I'd get the "plug-in-the-wall-power-socket" variety every-time...You can get a 20-meter electric extension chord for around $10:00 here in Oz...How much does a battery for the "new wave" electric tools cost ?...And something running on 240-volts or 110-volts is going to crank-out more power than a battery-pack 18-volt system, though they get the job done, at a price...

You have to understand how nice it is not to have an air hose in your way all the time... plus not having to worry about it hanging off the side of the car, or in some tight spots the air hose making it even tighter! Battery powered works nice for the small and medium bolts, but no doubt for the heavy stuff you'll be busting out the air impact!

Seems most of the auto guys are going with the Milwaukee. You're right about battery styles changing and charging times however they have improved... if you keep a few batteries you'd probably be good to go all day.

Last night I was pricing some stuff and it ain't cheap for the good stuff! I think I was feeling about the same as you after the sticker shock and decided to just purchase an extra battery for my existing Dewalt stuff ($50) and a used SnapOn air FAR72B knuckle buster stick for $85.

I'm also on the fence about a new pair of SnapOn Diagnal cutters (On sale for $56), some over priced SnapOn air motor oil ($19) and a replacement 16mm Snap On 3/8 swivel ($60).

Don't know if I'm ready yet to spend upwards of $300-$500 for an electric ratchet, but I think I'd go with the Milwaukee brand and slowly make the switch since the ratchet batteries are a different style anyway.

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Check-out "Stahl-Wille" tools...They are easily the best in the world imo...

With the over-inflated US-of-A dollar at the moment, you could be buying the best tools in the world at about 1/2 the price of Snap-On.

www.stahlwille-americas.com/en/downloads/printed-catalogues/

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

I downloaded their catalog.. I'll take a look... I swear the design of their "spanners" are almost the same as the ones found in the US issue tool kits found near the spare tire on late model W126 560 Mercedes-Benz.

Speaking of "spanner" wrenches, I needed to get a new SAE 1/2 Snap-On wrench, as I've been using this worn craftsman for years now... look at what I bought

It was just a few bucks more than a used one with some serious pitting so I figured what the hell! lol

It's going to be a conversation piece I know it! And I'm actually going to hang that with my chrome set of Snap-On wrenches on the wall, and use it like any other wrench! LOL

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

Also seen some nice Air Cat ratchets but man, they are pretty expesive too! $300+ dollars!

I know PowerStroker was saying they make good air tools, but WOW... they aren't cheap either!

Here is to hoping my FAR72B does not need a rebuild when it arrives...

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Snap-on are great tools, just grossly, way-over-priced IMO...But their warranty is OK, as long as you're still buying-stuff from the Snap-On man when his truck arrives lol !

Stahl-Wille by contrast don't offer a warranty ( well maybe a limited one on some stuff ), since their tools are designed to bend, rather than break when over-stressed. So they're safety oriented...

Stahl-Wille also offer top-end spanners & stuff for the aero-space-industry, that are likely even more expensive than Snap-On, so be careful where/what you read in the catalog.

You can only appreciate just how excellent a Stahl-Wille spanner is over anything else once you have one in your hand, & start using them...Especially the larger-sized items of say 36mm & above, where their comfort & super-light-weight really shine.

All that said, every company makes a "dud" somewhere, but I've yet to find a dud yet with Stahl-Wille.

Since I have both Snap-On & Stahl-Wille tools, I can honestly say that Stahl-Wille shits all-over anything as far as spanners go. They're super comfortable, & are designed that you can go to your maximum-effort, without the tool hurting your hands. Snap-On by design does not allow for this, though they look great. Snap-On does have the edge imo where sockets are concerned. They are strong & last really well. That said, I only use single-hex sockets, so they last, & can take punishment for a long time.

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

Welp... I went on and did it today!

Here is how it breaks down,

The M12 1/4 inch impact does 120 ft lbs

The M12 3/8 ratchet does 35 ft lbs

The M12 3/8 impact does 250 ft lbs

The M18 3/8 impact does 600 ft lbs

The M18 1/2 impact does 1,600 ft lbs w/ the forge battery.

I got the ratchet and the 1/4 impact in a kit for Christmas from my Mom... I was pretty impressed with the power of the M12 1/4 inch impact (smallest of the impacts and uses 1/4 bit style keys) because the first night I got them I had to change a spare on the road and it actually had the power to break lug nuts free! That's impressive!

I like the fact I won't need air hoses - and a lot of these impacts are VERY compact! Since I have the other two bays coming online soon it will help as the work is split between seperated bays. This will help also when doing things on the fly, outside -- or on a service call. It was a substantial investment however I think it was the right move because my 3/8 IR impact finally gave up the ghost. I'll still use my air compressor for cutting tools and air hammers -- I've even got a newer pneumatic Earthquake 1/2 impact that is advertised at 1,500 foot pounds -- but it feels more like 850-900 if you ask me. Bottom line is I have the best of both worlds now, but these power tools really make on the fly repairs simple and fast. Not to meniton they are MUCH quieter than running the compressor or even air tools -- and this is important as I am known to tinker well into the wee hours of the night.

Now all I need to get is a new scanner, and I am working on that as we speak! But that's a whole nother thread.

Let me know what you think! I also have my eye on that new portable tire inflator unit by Milwaukee -- and perhaps a drill and a saw later down the road. For now I have my corded skill saw, several sawzaws (one Dewalt Cordless) and many of my old DeWalt drills -- so that should be fine for now. It's rare I need a circular saw anyway -- but I for sure got my eye on that tire pump for the near future.

Got a fair deal and several free batteries as part of promotions going on. That M18 6.0 FORGE battery was $200 in of itself! But it bumps my impact to 1,600 lb feet of torque, and I figured I was already in so deep -- may as well get one big dog battery for that one ball busting job that will need every amp!

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Yo,

Congratulations ! Since they arrived as gifts, I say get-the-most out-of-them, & you always will have the ever-dependable & life-long-lasting air-tools as back-up...

I wouldn't count on those numbers offered as true Torque figures Stellar...Perhaps on paper, the maths will calculate out as such, with so much voltage available delivered through so-many amps etc etc, but lets remember a few truths here...

1. 3/8" drive sockets in any set that I've seen, only grow to the 3/4" / 19-mm sizes...Beyond that, 1/2" drive & sockets are needed to push through the power safely & dependably...

2. Allow your 3/8" Torque wrench maximum setting be your guide as to how much shyte they will actually take...

3. Only use Impact-sockets at all times. They will wear out.

4. Remember that the electric tools are made out of plastic. The more hard work they get, the quicker they'll wear-out.

I'm glad that you have extra batteries, they'll keep you going longer & get the most out of the tools before they mechanically or electrically crap-out. And they're certainly better to have than lugging around a portable air-compreesor for on-site use lol !

Enjoy them while they last ! And be friggin' careful, since it's a lot to ask out of 3/8" drives & sockets.

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

Thanks, Rastus!

I still have my old set of DeWalt drills, saws and even the 1/4 inch impact driver that made me give electric power tools a second look! I plan to give this kit to my Mom and Sisters, who got me this kit for Christmas

These are the two tools shown in the photo in the previous response as loose... you can see them.

Anyway, my point is that the DeWalt tools STILL WORK TODAY! This after some, what? Five or seven years? Not only do they "still work" they still work at the same level as when I bought them! The ONLY problem with them is that the one big DeWalt battery had to be tapped up because I dropped it a few times while using it with the trouble light! If I get a few more battery packs they could use them for many-many more years!

Yes, I leveled up from DeWalt to Milwaukee... and the Christmas gift only left me thirsty for more!

These new Milwaukee tools I purached are next level... even the 1/4 bit impact @ 120 lb ft I got for Christmas broke free lug nuts! So I'd have to assume thats CLOSE to 100 ft lbs at minimum on the 2023 Chevy Trailblazer I had to remove the wheel from. It's really funny these new tools seem to test how tight the bolt is and only add the torque that is needed before it sees that the nut or bolt is actually turning, then backing it down. It's really quite something Rastus! I'm excited to try out the more higher end stuff the company bought!

Any repair shop worth it's salt will always need a good air compressor! I'm not abandoning the air tools! NEVER! But so far these electric tools have proved to be most handy! No doubt the RPM's on the air tools are much greater when coupled with 190 PSI -- but that's more like 90 PSI while in use! Many people outside of a shop compressor will actually see 90 PSI running pressures! Why? Because it requires a big ass compressor and tank to achieve! You get a 5-10 bay shop and boy you're talking about needing a BIG ASS compressor! It's not cheap to keep up a compressor and it's water separators and maintenance! This all cost time and money! But if you're serious about fixing cars it's just an after thought.

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Yo,

Good stuff ! And to keep the bastards honest, here's the low-down on the maths, just so you can determine the real facts for yourself...And you'll see that there's at least one element in the equation that's missing from the adds...But read on !

Watt (W) to Torque (Nm) Calculation:

Motor Torque T(Nm) in Newton meter (Nm) is equal to 9.554140127 times of the electric power P(W) in watts divided by the speed N(rpm) in rpm.

Hence for converting watt to torque,

T(Nm) = 9.554140127 x (P(W)/ N(rpm))

Nm = 9.554140127 x (Watt / RPM)

Nm = 0.74 lb-ft

Example:

Calculate the rated torque that can be developed by the 22000 Watts, 1490 rpm three-phase motor.

Apply out Watt to torque conversion formula,

T(Nm) = 9.554140127 x (22000 / 1490)

T(Nm) = 144 Nm.

T(lb/ft) = (144 Nm x 1.34) = 192.96 lb/ft.

-- Edited by Rastus on Sunday 21st of January 2024 07:51:48 AM

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

Yes but these are impacts and thus use weighted hammers to add an extra variable that is not being represented above... furthermore, the tech that actually takes into consideration how tight the bolt is, along with sensing when the bolt/nut turning to apply more or less torque is pretty handy, but not necessarily relevent in your balls to the wall formula above for max power.

Either way, this would be a good time to drop this little image.

Still happy with my purchase several days after -- so I got a feeling these tools are going to help me make some money and more important, give me an edge in mobile situations I don't have a massive compressor on my back. Not only that quick repairs that leave out getting air hoeses to reach and filling up the compressor. Tomorrow should be the test, got a big-horn Ram coming in for some heavy front end... Big blue has got the garage totally consumed with it's overhaul. It should be interesting to see how they do in the cold weather.

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Yo,

Interesting to note that in the posted add, there's NO Snap-On, or Stahl-Wille tools mentioned...

I guess they're steering clear of the electric tool market...

The dictionary definition of Torque is...

qt.1. "A twisting effect exerted on a body by a force acting from a distance".

2. "Popularly, any force that measures rotation"...

3." An ancient Celtic armband or necklace of twisted metal"...

Any electric motor has a limited life-span, where generally the insulation in-between the wraps of wire degrades, causing local short-circuit, & gradual loss of available power, until it simply won't turn, or just smoke-up.

When you go to undo these bolts / wheel-nuts / lugs the traditional way via a breaker-bar with suitable length ( or pipe attached to increase length ), you can quickly gauge how tight or seized something has become. And the longer the bar, reduces the effort needed to crack that nut. So in this way, you quickly determine whether the nut is tight or simply seized.

I'm not sure that electic-tools give you this knowledge, & / or leverage...They are made out of plastic, with maybe a 6" handle to hold onto...This means that the hammering effect combined with speed is what gives them their prowess...But I've never come-across a piece of plastic that will endure a hammer for too long lol ! Or bearings that like being hammered...

Every force that's applied to something, has a counter-force to oppose it...Since the handles of these tools are all of 6"long, the tool itself must absorb the counter-effect, meaning your bearings & plastic, & the motor itself, or your tool would spin-out of your grip, & fly-off somewhere.

Use them & abuse them Stellar, but don't expect them to last if they're working beyond their means for too long. You'll know what I mean when the day comes that you have to get out the old breaker-bar & pipe attachment, & likely break the stud & lug off whilst trying to remove it.

Generally speaking, most caring mechanics will always use a tension-wrench or breaker-bar to tighten your wheels up with, not rattle-guns, electric or air, as that's not only lazy, it's stupid, & causes problems. And they'll often apply some spray-grease or oil sparingly to the threads before fitting.

As you know, using tension-wrenches & breaker-bars allows you to feel when the threads have stretched, & the nuts are tight evenly.

Enjoy your new toys LOL ! And don't make too many Celtic necklaces lol !

-- Edited by Rastus on Tuesday 23rd of January 2024 06:53:57 PM

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

Rastus wrote:

Generally speaking, most caring mechanics will always use a tension-wrench or breaker-bar to tighten your wheels up with, not rattle-guns, electric or air, as that's not only lazy, it's stupid, & causes problems.

Give me a break Rastus... Air/Power tools are good enough for the pits in F1 and Indy -- so they are just fine to be used on regular cars.

While it's true some newer composite and graphite rims do require a special torque -- that vast majority of lug nuts on small cars sit about 100-120 lbs.

Also, I don't think it really matters how long or big the handle is on any air/power tool... with the exception of older non-impact air ratches you only use the handle to hold the tool, there is no prying needed or even possible.

While the outer shells are plastic you can tell these babies have lots of metal inside them. Some of them even have alloy front cups... although you might be right that dropping one would be a very costly mistake as I'm sure plastic could break -- and that would be bad!

Also, I always use a little grease on the studs, if only because I'm probably going to be the next guy taking it off again later down the road!

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Stellar said....

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

1. Give me a break Rastus... Air/Power tools are good enough for the pits in F1 and Indy -- so they are just fine to be used on regular cars.

2. While it's true some newer composite and graphite rims do require a special torque -- that vast majority of lug nuts on small cars sit about 100-120 lbs.

3. Also, I don't think it really matters how long or big the handle is on any air/power tool... with the exception of older non-impact air ratches you only use the handle to hold the tool, there is no prying needed or even possible.

4. While the outer shells are plastic you can tell these babies have lots of metal inside them. Some of them even have alloy front cups... although you might be right that dropping one would be a very costly mistake as I'm sure plastic could break -- and that would be bad!

5. Also, I always use a little grease on the studs, if only because I'm probably going to be the next guy taking it off again later down the road !
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

ROTFLMAO !

R1. These replies I make Stellar are for "everyone", & not necessarily specific to you at any time...As for F1 & Indy, I bet that the flow-rates are pre-set, & that the tools are set via a Torque limiters for tensioning...And these racing machines in use are superfluous, where a season is all that's needed, & the wheels come on & off every-other-day-of-the-week, multiple times...They don't get a chance to freeze-in-place & corrode etc etc. And the metallurgy is state-of-the-art, not run-of-the-mill as designated via bean-counters.

R2. Very true, & that's why they shouldn't be over-tensioned...MB when the 124 series was released, claimed that over-tensioning their alloy rims warped the brake-discs...Do not use air-tools was the go, & use a tension-wrench for even tension across the hub.

R3. The idea of me indicating the handle lengths, was so that you could compare with the "old-days", where the longer the handle = more torque = less effort from you.

R4. Yep, one decent drop & it's all-over, at least for the battery...Potentially $500:00 flushed-down-the-can...And that's a lot of breaker-bars, crank-handles & sockets yo !

R5. Exactly, well done. I hope you don't run into any shyte from the power-tools if you're using them to tension with.

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Yo,

Here you go Stellar....Find attached a link to a tool-maker that will save-anyone's-sorry-ass from over-tensioning wheel nuts / lugs, whilst using air & / or electric impact-guns...

I forgot that these things were made when I was an apprentice back in the 1980's, but they're still around, & work a treat.

Essentially, they are a socket that's attached to a pre-set bar around 8" long, & "x" amount thickness, that's ingeniously calibrated to "rock & roll" & "twist & shake" whilst absorbing any excess torque that an air / electric tool may deliver, once the torque pre-set is reached.

Many are available to suit differing wheel-nut sizes & torque settings.

Highly recommended...They work-a-treat.

www.kstools.com/en/products/special-tools-for-passenger-cars-and-light-commercial-vans/wheel-tyre-fitting/torsion-rods/5944/1/2-torsional-torque-limiter-socket-22-mm-x-100-nm

-- Edited by Rastus on Wednesday 24th of January 2024 12:17:31 AM

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

Eh, sir... this is a thread about power tools... if you would like to argue the finer points of installing wheels feel free to start a new thread about it.

Anyway, I got to use all the tools today! The 1/2 impact is a BEAST! It just rips! Lug nuts dont even phase it -- I don't even think it engages the hammers to rip them off... even axle nuts just peel right off with ease!

The other smaller impacts work great for front end work and I have a great balance of power for different levels of tighness. The slim size and lack of an air hose to cram behind a steering knuckle make these smaller impacts VERY nice!

I'm impressed! Even after tearing down two cars (1500 truck and SUV) all of the power tools are still showing a FULL charge! I'm a pretty happy camper!

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

ROTFLMAO !!!

Stellar said...
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

qt."Eh, Sir... This is a thread about power tools... If you would like to argue the finer points of installing wheels, feel free to start a new thread about it".

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

LOL !!!

On the basis that you want the best for your customers paying their hard-earned for quality workmanship, & that you want the best for your tools & likely wanting to extend their life-span, I suggest that my post to the "Torsion-rod" is INTEGRAL to this thread, & is pointless to start another...

You should take a look at the link Stellar & consider grabbing a few of these....There's pictures too ;) !

www.kstools.com/en/products/special-tools-for-passenger-cars-and-light-commercial-vans/wheel-tyre-fitting/torsion-rods/5944/1/2-torsional-torque-limiter-socket-22-mm-x-100-nm

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

You know where you'll find a whole pouch of them limiter tools Rastus? At a effing TIRE STORE where the kids they hire have ZERO experience.

I'd imagine that is where YOU learned of them, no?

I'm not going to argue with you about them because most professionals have a torque wrench and know how to handle their expensive tools. Torque is only PART of the process of properly installing a wheel... but like I said before, I'd be more than happy to educate you further should you decide to make a thread about the proper ways of mounting a wheel. Go ahead Rastus, re-invent the wheel with a new thread.

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Yo,

Q1. How does one know with an electric-impact-gun, that delivers a claimed 1,600 ft/lbs of Torque, that the wheel-nut is over tightened, where it needs to deliver around 120 ft/lbs of applied Torque to tighten the wheel-nut ???...

Q2. How many times, will a person mess-up & over-stretch the threads over 10 x times the rated amount, before they realize they're messing-up ???...

I won't go on & on...However...

R1. By realizing that the imact gun is 10-times too powerful for tightening wheel-nuts, I won't use it...Or I'll choose to use one-of the "torsion-rod" tools, that won't allow me to mess-up.

R2. Who knows ??? There are foolish activities taking place everywhere...And some people believe that the advertised ratings on things, are true...Just like a 900-Hp Mustang lol ! All you have to do, is realize that the material that the item is made out of, cannot possibly deliver the claimed amount of bollox...Mathematics & calculations reveal the truths, & the lack of information from the advertisers to even supply the numbers to introduce into an industry std formula, prove the bollox.

And I don't think that there are too many materials anywhere that will live too long under the stress & strain of the claimed 1,600 ft/lb's torque in the automotive field, where shafting sizes never grow beyond 125-mm, or if you rather 6".

***Stellar said qt." Torque is only PART of the process of properly installing a wheel"...

Torque has nothing to do with the installation of a wheel...It's the applied force, as equally measured via the use of a tension-wrench or Torsion-bar across the wheel-hub via the wheel-nuts & studs threads that are stretched to OEM specific design criteria...Anything other than this is illegal & unsafe.

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

RASTUS! I'm a certified MASTER Mechanic since 1993! Show me your certification papers or STFU already!

Clearly you didn't read anything I have posted about buying FOUR different impact guns -- all of varying torque ratings.

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

Welp, I really put the the new power tools to the test today! It was a warm 36F Degree day with mist and lots of slush!

Had to swap out a set of wheel bearings, sway bar links and complete front disc pads and rotors on a 2019 Ram Big Horn... LOTS of really tight bolts and small tricky angles to this job but the new power tools ripped right thru the entire job and is STILL showing a full charge on ALL of the batteries! That is TWO DAYS worth of use and the batteries are still registering as full! Before I rechage them, I'm trying to get them at least down to two bars out of the four bar digital charge display. The M12 tool has built in charge indicators on the tool, but the M18's also have one on the tool and the battery itself!

It was a good test because my bay is still tied up, and this was about as big as we take them in anymore... Anyway, tomorrow I have control arms and an axle on an SUV and then four wheel bearings and brakes on a Buick... Hopefully I have them all done by Sunday. Since I don't do much outside until at least 10:30am, there is really only six or seven good hours in a day when it's winter time. Not to mention I'm over-booked and doing jobs on the ground. It's ball busting - miserable work in these weather conditions but it pays the bills for all these toys.

At the start of yesterday my power tools were all clean and fancy, now they have some grease on them and are starting to look like mechanics tools!

I'm expecting six or seven years out of them AT LEAST -- providing none get dropped or anything like that. I like having four different impacts as it helps to get in tight spaces and provides the power at many torque ratings.

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Stellar said...( multiple quotes folks )....

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________

1."RASTUS! I'm a certified MASTER Mechanic since 1993" !

2. "Show me your certification papers or STFU already" !

3. "Clearly you didn't read anything I have posted about buying FOUR different impact guns -- all of varying torque ratings".

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________

ROTFLMAO !!!

Always a fight with our host...And yet through his replies, the weaknesses reveal themselves, & so we persist with understanding & consideration....

R1. I myself was / remain qualified as a mechanic with National Recognition Standards as a Certified "B"- Grade, since additional training was provided via Mercedes Benz Australia through the apprenticeship years. But these additional recognitions really don't mean much, since most people leave the automotive trade due to poor wages, or they specialize in certain fields, such as Engines, Transmissions, Differentials, Suspension, EFI etc etc, where the work is sublet to these specialists...And in today's world, dealerships ensure their staffs employment at "average'' trending wages levels via warranty on new cars, & (work delivered / time) incentive monthly bonus packages etc etc.

The only way to make real money from the trade was to either...

1. Become a specialist in a field.

2. Open one's own business.

3. Upgrade the Certificate to "Heavy-Stream", & work on Trucks & big diesels at the mines, where the wages are 4 x higher at the least. ( This is where your son should have gone, & he could have bought his 'Vette outright, or the Mercedes, needing no loan, after a couple of months work. Yes they work hard, 7-days a week at 12-hrs a day, but they also clear around 2.5-K every week...But whatever right ?!...

R2. You would be an absolute fucking idiot to post-up any sensitive data on the internet.

R3. I have read everything that you have posted, & it's indicative that you understand little about Torque & mathematics, & are too lazy to even attempt the proofs, or even concede a loss...And worse still, you don't open the door to learn something when offered...

Beyond my Automotive Qualification, I also spent a further 4-odd years at a Maritime College / University, acquiring my ADME ( now apparently titled Bachelor of Marine Engineering ). Lots of maths & physics involved here...And this does not mean that I'm smart, but managed to pass their exams & bullshyte, to then work for the elte / Illuminati.

To conclude, everything to do with any form of Engineering is mathematics.

***Also, there's around 300 hits into this place every 24-hours, & do you really want to turn these people ( & it only takes one ) into idiots like Maclare ??? Where wheels go flying-off their cars down-the-road on freeway's & into innocent pregnant ladies driving the other way ???...

And all because they read your thread, about how good tightening wheel-nuts are with a claimed 1,600 lb/ft electric impact-gun...

Wake-up Stellar, & consider others & their possible actions / activity, by what you post-up. We may even start acknowledging you as the new Maclare LOL !

-- Edited by Rastus on Friday 26th of January 2024 12:39:59 AM

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

No Rastus, I think it's time you wake up pal...

Nobody asked for your bullshit mathematics that you copied and pasted from Google to look cool... I don't even waste time with your math because you're so ignorant you fail to even mention that it's better to be 100 ft. lbs too tight on a lug nut than 30 ft. lbs too loose and the damn wheel fall off! We have all seen the tools that you purchased your last time out trying to work as a tech and I can tell you that if you were using torque bars on them underpowered tools you probably had a lot of wheels fall off and that may be the real reason you no longer do that work anymore. Probably why you're making such a big deal out of it in here.

As I have said there is more to proper wheel fitment than just the nonsense you wan't to cry about -- such as the back of the wheel where it mates to the hub and the center. There is also proper tire pressures and many other factors that go into wheel fitment... If someone wants their wheels torqued with a torqe wrench by hand they will usually explicitly state so -- and will be charged accordingly! By the way, using a torque wrench is the ONLY method to set exact foot pound specifications -- and it's rare that supercars with carbon firber rims come in looking for tire work anyway... otherwise lug studs and nuts are designed with the knowledge that people will over tighten them on the side of the road when changing out a spare.

The ONLY thing you're doing running off at the mouth is possibly scarring someone to not tighten their lugs enough, which would result in the damn wheel falling off! Having the wheel fall off is FAR WORSE than anything that an over-torqued lug nut will cause! FAR WORSE! In fact, the only person who is going to turn a noob into somebody like Mclair is by listening to you and leaving lug nuts too loose! His wheel probably fell off because he used an unperpowered air gun with some silly torque attachement for people who have no business installing wheels anyway! It's common knowledge that if you put a 6" long 1/2 drive extension on an impact the torque is going to be DRASTICALLY reduced! You seem to spout this kind of sh!t like it wasn't taught the 1st week of High School auto shop class!

The bottom line here is you are wrong! It's better a lug nut be a little too tight than a little too loose -- EVERY SINGLE TIME!

It was idiots like yourself from BenzWorld.org who filled Mclair's head full of shit and that is why his damn tire fell off!

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Stellar, my friend, you really are a 1st-class idiot beyond description...

It really is a wonder that you've survived for so long as you do, living the life that you have.

You're lucky that people like PowerStroker ( & even myself ) somehow try to understand your dilemma, & even stick-up & help you, even after you chew-our-heads-off, with no valid claim. ( Remember the house renovations & asbestos that you breathed in you fool) !

Anyhow, I pretty-much think that your imaginary " autotrend.activeboard.com/t67354885/tried-to-lurk-the-zoom-web-crawlers-live-broadcast-last-nigh/" thread speaks volumes about your state-of-mind.

I've seen the threads where you & Jerry rip Mclare a new ass-hole for no reason other than to self-validate your own idiocy, & self-professed superiority over him, for no reason at all, except for the fact that Mclare had more people listening to him & following his lead, rather than yours or Jerry's. And Jerry isn't even a mechanic...Mostly he is an over-enthusiastic MB owner, who you happened to like, because he fitted a Nitrous-kit into his 124...And like yourself, he lives a double-life, but as a hobo sneaking free-rides on trains, as opposed to an an imaginary casanova.

Sad...

Rather than help, you rather self-validate your own claimed superiority, to little or no avail...This indicates a really poor self-esteem, as witnessed by your fantasy thread above...

But still, we'll try to help you out !

The pressure is on, & pretty-soon it seems reality will bite everyone on the ass that isn't aware of, or prepared for the shyte to come...But all the information you need to be prepared is within this site, so look around. Simply follow Shawnees advice if you don't understand what I offer. ( Facts not fiction ).

As for your reply above, WTF are you talking about ???...

No clues.

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

I don't see how any of the fiction you have written above has anything to do with power tools.

You're unhinged Rastus! Get help!

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

LOL !

OK...Getting back to Power-tools & the claimed numbers...

Stellar said...
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

qt."I don't see how any of the fiction you have written above has anything to do with power tools".

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

PowerStroker, in an unimaginable stroke-of-genius & luck, grabbed himself a truck that's fitted out with a sublime, EFI, 7.5-ltr / 460 ci V-8...

Now, this engine in std trim, makes well-over 533 ft/lbs of Torque, but for our calculations, we'll leave it at 533 ft/lbs...

Let's say that we have 3 of these motors, & we attach them together, crank-end-to-end, so they're now, a 24-cylinder V-engine...

When we start these babies-up, & hold them at WOT, between say 2,500-3,500 rpm, the combined torque out-put will be the same as the claims of your electric impact-gun.

1. Do you see an error in these claims possibly ?

2. Do you see why I'd like to find out where the error lay ?

3. Do you see why I'd like to not have people bullshyting themselves ?

4. Do you see why if the tools did actually make the claimed 1,600 lb/ft of torque, that any wheel-nut / lug would have its thread shorn-off if used to tighten-up the nuts ?

Confusedt ???...

And just-in-case, 3 x 533 = 1,599...

-- Edited by Rastus on Friday 26th of January 2024 04:37:03 PM

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

You have got to be kidding Rastus... you are aware how an "impact" mechanism works?

How can you spout all these formulas and then turn around and ask such crazy questions?

The torque is applied by a hammer and is not continuous -- perhaps 0.05 of a second or so, but it's done over and over at a high rate. Thus the term "impact"

Also, the Cyber Truck out pulled an F350 diesel! That would be a "constant" form of torque - but it has a much bigger battery and motors to do this.

Electricity is powerfull stuff Rastus. It's raw and it's instant.

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

Rastus wrote:

Anyhow, I pretty-much think that your imaginary " autotrend.activeboard.com/t67354885/tried-to-lurk-the-zoom-web-crawlers-live-broadcast-last-nigh/" thread speaks volumes about your state-of-mind.

I still can't believe a guy who claims to hang out with inter-stellar Aliens every night had the gull to question my state-of-mind.

But it's true, the women in that thread drive me crazy! That is why I had to put the thread in Pandora's Box.

Honestly you were always complaining about it, so I figured you'd be the last person to miss it! But here we are!

Whenever you consider questioning someones state-of-mind, I suggest you first look in the mirror and question the state-of-mind of whoever is staring back at you. That's a free tip too!

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

SELLC wrote:
1.You have got to be kidding Rastus... you are aware how an "impact" mechanism works?
2.How can you spout all these formulas and then turn around and ask such crazy questions?
3.The torque is applied by a hammer and is not continuous -- perhaps 0.05 of a second or so, but it's done over and over at a high rate. Thus the term "impact"
4.Also, the Cyber Truck out pulled an F350 diesel! That would be a "constant" form of torque - but it has a much bigger battery and motors to do this.
5.Electricity is powerfull stuff Rastus. It's raw and it's instant.

R1. Yes

R2. Because I know the answers ( or at least some way to explain them ) & you don't, as evidenced by your ridiculous replies lol !

R3. What does "impact" have to do with Torque ??? Find the answer to this, & the true answer will present itself. or you can wait for me to deliver it to you via spoon-feeding, since your Certificates clearly steer away from any mathematics or physics, which is what engineering is all about Sir.

R4. You need to grasp the meaning of Torque Stellar...It's the measurable effort, usually in Nm or ft/lbs, as applied to usually a shaft via a lever. The shaft does not have to turn for torque or the effort to be measured. As an example, some Torque wrenches bend & deflect a mechanism that goes click when the desired torque / twist-effort has been reached.

R5. So this is your explanation of electricity, "raw & instant"...Suddenly your Certificate looks like it was found within the roll of paper used for wiping yo ass after a deposit on the can...

Q. What is light ???

Ans. Electromagnetic radiation perceptible to the eye.

Q. What is electricity ???

Ans. Compressed light.

Q. How do we measure or weigh electricity ???

Ans. We can't...But we can measure the effects of its force, as discovered by & applied by a few engineers, namely Mr.Watt, Mr. Ohm, & Mr.Ampere...

-- Edited by Rastus on Friday 26th of January 2024 09:33:46 PM

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

PART 2....

Q. Surely we don't need 22.5 ltrs of engine capacity via 24 cylinders to make the claimed Torque of 1,600 ft/lbs ???....

Ans. No we don't !

Q. Well how do we get that amount of Torque then ???....

Ans. Gearboxes are known as Torque-multiplyer's...

Q. What doe Torque-multiplyer mean ???...

Ans. Simple !!! If we were to use a gearbox with a reduction-ratio of say 3:1, we could get the same 1,600 ft/lbs of Torque from only one of the 460 V-8's...

Q. How is this possible ???...

Ans. On the basis of the engine at a claimed steady 3,000-RPM @ WOT, the Torque output is 533 ft/lbs. When we run this engine through a gearbox of 3:1 reduction ratio, Torque gets multiplied x 3, but at the expense of shaft speed being reduced from 3.000 to 1,000 -rpm...

Has there been a light-bulb moment yet ???...

I'll wait a while before posting Part 3, & see if its possible for brains to start thinking again, it's never too late to start.

All that's needed is written above with the formula, & discovering what the missing ingredient is, & then making a few adjustments via investigation.

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

Rastus, I think you got a screw loose... but it's okay, I have lots of power-tools to tighten that back up for you!

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

SELLC wrote:
Rastus, I think you got a screw loose... but it's okay, I have lots of power-tools to tighten that back up for you!

LOL !

PART 3...It seems that we need to spoon-feed...

* On the basis that you looked at the industry std formula, you may have realized that the ingredient of Speed / RPM / represented by the letter / numeral "N" was not available from the tell-tale information on your advertised box...A key ingredient...Thus, the formula cannot be calculated.

* This led me to look-up what a std pneumatic impact-gun bases its specifications on.

* What I found, was a first-hit random choice no-name-brand that came-up, & looked at its specs, & lo-&-behold, there was the answer, & how these mofo's use trickery & maths to stooge innocent people with their blurb.

* The std air-impact gun when spec-tested for data results, runs on the air-pressure of a constant 6-7 Bars, & delivers 160 ft/lbs of claimed Torque, at a nominal 1,690-RPM.

* For our conversion purposes, we'll lower the RPM down to 1600-RPM, to keep the numbers silly simple.

* What's missing from our electric tool data is the RPM data, to use in the industry std formula.

* Now, without even using the formula, its clear that if we add a 10 :1 reduction gearbox to the front-end of Stellars bullshyte impact-gun, the 1,600 RMP as tested on the air-impact-gun, now becomes 160-RPM on the bullshyte electric-gun, & so, our torque gets multiplied by a factor of 10, giving us our bullshyte 1,600 ft/lbs of Torque, from 160.

1. It's very true that we needed 3 x 460-V-8's running at 3,000-rpm, WOT, to give us out Torque figure.

2. It's also true that with a 3:1 reduction gearbox fitted to only one of these 460 V-8's, we'll get the same Torque figure, but with reduced shaft-speed, down to 1,000-rpm.

3. If you think that a plastic-electric-impact-gun will handle & deliver the force / torque of 3 x 460 V-8's because the numbers calculate-out as such via the use of a 10;1 gearbox, you'll be like our host.

Mathematics proves that the numbers may align via gearboxes & torque multiplication, but will the plastic hold-up ???Or the super-tiny-gears inside???

Time will tell lol !

No doubt it's a powerful gun, as proven by the numbers, but I dare say it will take a MAJOR SHYTE when it comes up against an equally powerful opposing fixed item...

So, the real question remains for Myth-Busters....And that question is...

At what torque effort does the impact-gun actually take-a-permanent shyte ???

-- Edited by Rastus on Friday 26th of January 2024 10:29:40 PM

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

1. I still can't believe a guy who claims to hang out with inter-stellar Aliens every night had the gull to question my state-of-mind.
2. But it's true, the women in that thread drive me crazy ! That is why I had to put the thread in Pandora's Box.
3. Honestly you were always complaining about it, so I figured you'd be the last person to miss it! But here we are!
4. Whenever you consider questioning someone's state-of-mind, I suggest you first look in the mirror and question the state-of-mind of whoever is staring back at you.
5. That's a free tip too!

R1. Man, the ET's are real, & they're here ! Time to celebrate & get to know the greater family of mankind...It's agreat pity that once again, what was once meant to be the greatest nation on the earth, has turned into the worst, & treats its people so poorly, & feeds them so-many-lies...Disgraceful imo.

R2. Might be best to pop-it-in the V-8 Cafe then. That thread plays like a game of tennis, in & out of the Cafe so often. I only view it on rare occasion, simply because that's the only input into this site that you post in on an irregular basis, typically once-a-week it would seem.

R3. I never complained about it, but wondered WTF is going-on with our host ??? Has he lost his mind ??? How much time does he spend in Virtual Reality ??? Those sorts of concerns reflected either manipulated brainwashing via gov't / CIA, &/or self imposed virtual reality due to unhappy life that's flying-by...So I had to follow the bollox from time-to-time, & remain confusedt, but glad it's not my issue...

R4. See R3 or your own thread "https://autotrend.activeboard.com/t67354885/tried-to-lurk-the-zoom-web-crawlers-live-broadcast-last-nigh/," & then take a deep breath, & follow your own advice would be my reply.

R5. Right back at you Pepe-le-pew...

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

Listen, if you want to try and out-math Milwaukee -- knock yourself out!

These are the ratings on the two "smaller" 3/8 impacts... one explains how it prevents stripping or "ripping" bolts during install. It's called technology Rastus,

I've used, seen and owned a lot of impacts in my day, Rastus... the 1/2 big boy really rips -- and I'd say well over 1200 FT. LBS. by the seat of the pants... maybe more if I could find a nut or bolt tight enough! I'm for sure impressed! It's much quieter and all of the power tools eliminate an air hose or a cord! This alone is real nice! I sure hope they stand the test of time, but the brand comes very well recommended by quite a few people... Fingers crossed.

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

I should also mention that Big Blue (Massive ass V10 F250) is up and ready for the rest of it's suspension install... Big Blue will be the ultimate test of this 1/2 impact because I remember how much my old gun struggled with ball joints and pressing tasks.

I'm most excited to get cracking on that and see how this impact drives a ball joint in with my ball joint press... I'll be sure to update!