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Post Info TOPIC: PowerStrokers ULTIMATE Saturn rebuild - LOTS of pics


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PowerStrokers ULTIMATE Saturn rebuild - LOTS of pics


Well, this is the 3rd and best Saturn I've ever owned.  It's an 02 SC2 (The last year they were made) and this one came from California so it's rust free.  At the time of this rebuild it had 171,000 miles.  It burned a few quarts of oil between changes, and the clutch was slipping due to tranny fluid leaking on the clutch disc.  Now I will share with you how these problems, and other weak links were resolved to create the ultimate commuter vehicle.

First some teardown shots:







The engine has been completely disassembled at this point, and critical measurements have been taken to determine which machining processes will be necessary to bring it back into shape.  The cylinder bores, rod journals, and main journals all measured within production specs, and although glazed, the original crosshatch is visible, so there is no need to buy new pistons and have it bored oversize in this case. 

Now to resolve the oil consumption issue that these S Series Saturn cars have become known for.  Unlike most vehicles, these didn't come from the factory with oil drain back holes in the piston oil ring grooves.  This will over time cause oil to become trapped in the rings where it will bake and become carbon which causes the rings to stick and results in oil consumption.  I'm going to drill some holes myself and eliminate this problem.

Before:

After:



-- Edited by PowerStroker on Saturday 7th of April 2012 06:18:52 PM

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Time to put it back together.  I had the cylinder head sent out for a complete 3 angle valve job.  I also had the machine shop hot tank the block and resurface the flywheel.  I honed the cylinders myself and thoroughly cleaned the block with warm soapy water to remove all honing grit.  Then it got new Hastings Rings, Clevite Rod and Main bearings, and Fel Pro gaskets.

 







-- Edited by PowerStroker on Saturday 7th of April 2012 06:26:46 PM

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Now it's time to resolve another weak link on these cars.  In the later S-Series with DOHC engines that have plastic intake manifolds, there is a plastic coolant passage that degrades over time and will eventually cause a huge coolant leak.  It used to be that a replacement intake manifold was the only cure.  Now however there is an aftermarket repair that is much better and involves using a hack saw to cut the plastic coolant stem off your intake manifold, and replace it with a seperate metal unit available from carsaturn.com.







-- Edited by PowerStroker on Saturday 7th of April 2012 06:34:57 PM

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Time to play with the transmission now.  As I mentioned, the reason my clutch was slipping was because transmission fluid was leaking on to my clutch disc from the transmission input shaft or "quill" seal as GM calls it.  Notice the bellhousing full of oil.

Trans disassembly:


Now this is where things get very risky...

The quill seal / bearing assembly on this transaxle is pressed out using special tools to support the bell housing and prevent it from breaking under the force of the hydraulic press required to remove it.  There have been MANY horror stories of people trying to do this without properly supporting the aluminum transmission case and breaking it during their attempt. 

I don't have the special tools to do this, and I'm not paying several hundred dollars to Kent-Moore for them either, so I made my own and it worked. 

The area around the perimeter of the quill bearing is not an even surface, nor is it level, so I had to fabricate a piece of pipe with a 2 inch inner diameter to be the receiver tube for the bearing, and weld on some support legs to allow my receiver tube to support the  transmission case evenly all around the perimeter of the bearing.  Each of the two support legs is a different dept and angle to sit perfectly against it's respective case stiffening rib.  They are then gusseted together with a triangular piece welded inside to maintain their shape and angle.  This allowed the force from the hydraulic press to transfer through my receiver tube and not the fragile aluminum transmission case just like the special dealership tools would do.







                            ^^^VICTORY^^^

And now to press the new one in which is much less scary because the backside of the trans housing is flat and doesn't need any special support.  Just set it on the press block and use an appropriate sized socket to drive the new one in with some anaerobic sealer.





-- Edited by PowerStroker on Sunday 8th of April 2012 12:49:46 PM

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Before the transmission goes back together, there is another huge weak link I'm going to fix. 

These cars are known for ejecting their differential pin during events of wheel spin on slippery surfaces ect.  When this happens, the transmission is destroyed beyond repair because the pin actually blows right through the aluminum transmission case and leaves a huge hole in it.  Often it blows right in to your clutch / torque converter housing as this problem is present on both the manual and automatic transmisisons. 

The reason this happens, is because in Saturn's infinitie wisdom, they only used a small roll pin to be the retainer for the differential pin.  It doesn't take a whole lot of force to get that roll pin to sheer and eject the diff pin through the transmission case, so watch as I "improve the design" with the help of my local welding shop. 






Now to chamfer the edges of the pin to increase the surface area for welding.  This was done on both ends:

Also chamfering the diff case:

Assembled, ready for TIG welding:

And finally, tig welded on both ends by my local welding shop:



Time to put the tranny back together:






-- Edited by PowerStroker on Saturday 7th of April 2012 07:53:52 PM

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Time to put the car back together:





Figured I had better do new struts, brakes, alternator, water pump, starter, and hoses while I was in there.

She's a mean bitch now.  All done and I've already put 40 miles on her.  She runs better than she ever has.



-- Edited by PowerStroker on Saturday 7th of April 2012 07:27:23 PM



-- Edited by PowerStroker on Saturday 7th of April 2012 10:58:21 PM

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Just because I know you've been wondering for years what I look like...



-- Edited by PowerStroker on Saturday 7th of April 2012 07:29:02 PM

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Well I have to admit, you definitely have a fetish for these Saturns.

You don't see too many people going thru the effort to rebuild them, let alone modify them. To each their own I guess.

Looks like a real fine job, and it seems like you were able to re-use a lot of the internals. You dont see too many people re-using 171K slugs, but if they were spec'n out then why waste the $$.

I do wonder why you didn't just drill and tap that roll pin hole for the spider gear pin and use one from an 8.8 Mustang rear end? Seems like it would have been much easier, and allowed you to remove the pin later down the road if you ever needed to replace the spider gears. Oh well, I imagine that pin wont be blowing out the side of the transmission any time soon.

I could never get into the 4 cylinders myself, and what I find really ironic is the fact you work with HD Diesels all day yet you have this fetish for such a small car/engine.

Nice mod on that coolant tube, you got to love a good aftermarket fix to a poor factory design.

I noticed the car is Blue... I myself think it would have looked better in Red. Buy hey....

 

 



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Funny you should mention the 8.8 diff pin bolt idea lol.

I actually brought one home with the intention of doing exactly that, but realized the head of that bolt would be right between two of the built in speed sensor tone ring teeth in the diff, and would certainly cause a speed sensor glitche if there was a metal bolt head in that spot.

I have been trolling around the forums at saturnfans.com, and the genreal concensus there is to weld it up and be done with it. If ever it would need to be taken apart, it would probably be junk anyway and need replacement. Though there are also some guys there who just get stronger double rolled pins to replace the original one, and some even drill the other end and double pin it.

I was actually expecting you to comment on my T-shirt, but I guess it seemed like a normal part of PowerStroker's wardrobe in your mind?



-- Edited by PowerStroker on Sunday 8th of April 2012 01:35:47 AM

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Well... If that is the exciter ring for the pickup on the differential then I guess I would have had concerns about the bolt head sitting up in that area too. I have seen a lot of them diff pins get worn out from the spider gears, but given the engine I doubt that will be a big problem on this application.

Seems like the friction coating on the pistons is pretty worn, but again not a big deal. One thing I could never get over on them aluminum Saturn blocks was the fact they almost looked like Styrofoam. The grain just left me feeling like it was made the same way, but with aluminum of course.

With gas at almost $5 a gallon today I guess that's your silver lining to building a 4 cylinder. I wonder how long before you pawn this one off?

I didn't comment on the t-shirt because I figured you were trying to be a Wise-Ass. Blue car, blue tool box and a donkey on your t-shirt reeks of Democrat.

So how long did the entire process take you and how much did you have to shell out?



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SELLC wrote:

One thing I could never get over on them aluminum Saturn blocks was the fact they almost looked like Styrofoam. The grain just left me feeling like it was made the same way, but with aluminum of course.

Right you are Rex!  Saturn used a unique casting technique called Lost foam casting

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost-foam_casting

today I guess that's your silver lining to building a 4 cylinder. I wonder how long before you pawn this one off?

I plan to keep this one for a long time.

I didn't comment on the t-shirt because I figured you were trying to be a Wise-Ass. Blue car, blue tool box and a donkey on your t-shirt reeks of Democrat.

That's my home tool box.  My work one is red and about 3 times bigger.

I don't know if reeks is the right word for this, more like "has the pleasant scent of Democrat or fresh baked cookies"

So how long did the entire process take you and how much did you have to shell out?

The car was down for 3 weeks, though a lot of that was just waiting for additional parts I decided to replace after I started the project.  I'm afraid to add up the receipts.  But it's essentially a mechanically new Saturn now, and at a much lower cost than they went for in 02 so as long as I think about it that way I'm fine.


 



-- Edited by PowerStroker on Sunday 8th of April 2012 12:54:51 PM

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No comment on the worn piston friction coating... Like I said, reeks of Democrat! LOL!

Let's just pretend like I never mentioned it. 



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There's enough friction coating for another 171,000 miles. At that point it will be time for some .010 oversize speed pro pistons.

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So.... How has the Sat-Run been treating you?



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It's running sweet. I have 700 miles on it since the rebuild, and it feels like a new car. I call it the "Super Saturn."

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DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMMMMMMMMNNNNNNNNNNNNNN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NICE JOB POWERSTROKER!!!!!!!!!! REXY BOY................. NOW DATS HOW YOU REBUILD AND FIX SHIT!!!!!!!!!!!! TAKE GOOD NOTE AND BOW DOWN AND KISS POWERSTROKER'S ASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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LOL!

Only people like Stoma and PowerStroker would stare in amazement at a 4 cylinder GM engine rebuilt with 90% of the same original FACTORY parts. The only thing custom on that thing is a plastic water neck replaced with a metal one for the cooling system! LOL! Reminds me of them guys who thought they were all that by installing a chrome thermostat housing! Names like Mclare come to mine!

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! I almost fell off my chair from laughing so hard!

The plates and registration on my car cost more each year than PowerStroker paid for that biscuit!

Just goes to prove Stoma is a broke ass with shit for taste in automobiles! Explains his hostility and jealousy.

I'd post photos of some "Real" custom engine builds, but much like pulling up to a saturn at a stop light, it isn't even worth my time messing with.



-- Edited by SELLC on Tuesday 15th of May 2012 08:57:49 PM

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SELLC wrote:

I'd post photos of some "Real" custom engine builds, but much like pulling up to a saturn at a stop light, it isn't even worth my time messing with.



-- Edited by SELLC on Tuesday 15th of May 2012 08:57:49 PM


 YAAAAAAA..... LETS SEE YOU POST PICS OF THAT 560 NOS KIT YOU HAD!!!!!!!!!!!! BIGGEST JOKE EVAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AHHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin



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For those reading this in the future, you might be wondering Why Rex was praising this project at first, but then started to slam my beautiful build thread.

Fear not, he doesn't mean it, we're just in the middle of our bi-weekly pissing match. I honestly don't know what started this one, but it will be over in a day or two...

Then we'll start another one.

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PowerStroker wrote:

I honestly don't know what started this one, but it will be over in a day or two...

Then we'll start another one.


 JEALOUSY MY FRIEND........... JEALOUSY



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SELLC wrote:

Well I have to admit, you definitely have a fetish for these Saturns.

You don't see too many people going thru the effort to rebuild them, let alone modify them. To each their own I guess.


 Let's be honest...

I never cared for Saturns, and in a nice polite way I have said so even at the start of this thread.

I have also said in this thread that the friction coating on the pistons was worn away, and that welding a spider gear pin was somewhat back-woods.

But, I have always maintained that the craftsmanship of the job (less the use of worn parts) was up to par, which is more than I could ever say for anything Stoma worked on.

For Stoma to say I am jealous makes him look pretty ignorant. I put together engines where just the piston set alone cost more than this Saturn project took to buy and rebuild. And I am sure PowerStroker has worked with some expensive componets also.

If PowerStroker likes his Saturns, thats all that matters.

Enuff said.



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Hey PowerStroker!

Did you get the memo?

#87-61-24: INFO. USE OF 'SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS' - (Apr 2, 1998)

SUBJECT: INFORMATION - USE OF "SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS"



MODELS: 1998 AND PRIOR PASSENGER CARS AND TRUCKS


THE USE OF "SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS" -
WHEN CLEANING ENGINE GASKET SEALING SURFACES, AND/OR CLEANING PARTS FROM AN ENGINE WHICH ARE TO BE REUSED; SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS (TYPICALLY A WOVEN FIBER PAD DESIGN) WHICH CONTAIN ABRASIVES, SUCH AS A HIGH AMOUNT OF ALUMINUM OXIDE, ARE NOT RECOMMENDED.
THE USE OF SUCH SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS DISLODGE ALUMINUM OXIDE (FROM THE DISC) AND METAL PARTICLES, WHICH CAN LEAD TO PREMATURE ENGINE BEARING FAILURE.
THE PRESENCE OF ALUMINUM OXIDE IN ENGINE OIL HAS BEEN SHOWN TO CAUSE PREMATURE ENGINE BEARING FAILURE. IN SOME CASES THIS FAILURE OCCURS IN AS LITTLE AS 1,000 MILES (2,200 KM) OR LESS AFTER THE REPAIR HAS BEEN MADE.
SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS MAY GRIND THE COMPONENT PART MATERIAL AND IMBED IT INTO THE DISC. THIS CAN RESULT WHEN MORE AGGRESSIVE GRINDING OF THE GASKET SURFACE TAKES PLACE. PROCEDURE: A NEW PRODUCT FROM 3M(R) AUTOMOTIVE AFTERMARKET DIVISION, THE ROLOC BRISTLE DISC*, IS NOW AVAILABLE WHICH ADDRESSES SOME OF THE ABOVE CONCERNS.
* WE BELIEVE THIS PRODUCT TO BE RELIABLE. THERE MAY BE ADDITIONAL MANUFACTURERS OF SUCH PRODUCTS. GENERAL MOTORS DOES NOT ENDORSE, INDICATE ANY PREFERENCE FOR OR ASSUME ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ITEMS WHICH MAY BE AVAILABLE FROM THIS FIRM, OR FOR ANY SUCH ITEMS WHICH MAY BE AVAILABLE FROM OTHER SOURCES.
CAUTION:

TO AVOID PERSONAL INJURY FOLLOW STANDARD SAFETY PRECAUTIONS, INCLUDING THE USE OF SAFETY GLASSES, SHOULD BE OBSERVED DURING SURFACE PREPARATION.
READ THE SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED WITH THE PRODUCT BEFORE USE.
REMOVE BY HAND, WITH A SCRAPPER (PLASTIC SCRAPPER ON ALUMINUM SURFACES), THE BULK OF MATERIAL ON THE COMPONENT SURFACE BEFORE USING THE 3M(R) ROLOC BRISTLE DISC.
NOTICE: DUE CARE MUST BE TAKEN TO AVOID THE ENTRY OF ANY MATERIAL INTO THE ENGINE BLOCK OIL AND COOLANT PASSAGES WHEN CLEANING COMPONENT SURFACES.


THE PRESENCE OF FOREIGN MATERIAL IN ENGINE OIL HAS BEEN SHOWN TO CAUSE PREMATURE ENGINE BEARING FAILURE.
COVER OR BLOCK ALL ENGINE PORTS (ENGINE OIL AND COOLANT) AND OPEN AREAS (CYLINDER BORES, LIFTER VALLEY, ETC.) TO PREVENT POSSIBLE CONTAMINATION WHEN WORKING ON THE ENGINE.
VACUUM UP ALL CONTAMINANTS (I.E. DIRT, GASKET MATERIAL, ETC.).
IMPORTANT: ENGINE COMPONENTS, CLEANED WITH 3M ROLOC BRISTLE DISC, SHOULD BE THOROUGHLY CLEANED BEFORE RE-INSTALLING THEM ON THE ENGINE BLOCK.


THE USE OF A VACUUM, SPRAY CLEANER GM P/N 12346139 OR 12377981, PARTS CLEANER, ETC. TO REMOVE ALL TRACES OF CONTAMINANT IS SUGGESTED.
THE DISCS (SEE FIGURE 1--3M(R) ROLOC DISC IDENTIFICATION) ARE AVAILABLE IN DIFFERENT GRIT LEVELS, WITH SUGGESTED APPLICATIONS AS FOLLOWS:
3M(R) PART COLOR/ SUGGESTED NUMBER** DESCRIPTION*** APPLICATION QUAN. --------- ------------- ------------ ----- WHITE 120X GRIT ALUMINUM BOX OF ROLOC BRISTLE DISC (MILD 10 07532 1" DIAMETER ABRASIVE) 07528 2" DIAMETER 07529 3" DIAMETER
YELLOW 80X GRIT ALUMINUM OR BOX OF ROLOC BRISTLE DISC CAST IRON/ 10 07531 1" DIAMETER STEEL 07525 2" DIAMETER (MEDIUM 07527 3" DIAMETER ABRASIVE)
GREEN 50X GRIT CAST IRON/ BOX OF ROLOC BRISTLE DISC STEEL (HARSH 10 07530 1" DIAMETER ABRASIVE) 07524 2" DIAMETER 07526 3" DIAMETER
*** THE ABOVE 3M(R) ROLOC BRISTLE DISCS ARE TO BE USED WITH THE CORRECT DISC PAD ASSEMBLIES LISTED BELOW.
CAUTION:

NON-3M(R) BACK-UP PAD'S MAY HAVE A DEEPER THREADED CAVITY WHICH CAUSES THE BUTTON (ON THE DISC) TO CONTINUE TO TIGHTEN DOWN DURING USE. THIS CAN CAUSE THE BUTTON TO SEPARATE FROM THE DISC RESULTING IN DISC FLY OFF AND POTENTIAL OPERATOR HARM.
3M(R) PART NUMBER** DESCRIPTION QUAN. --------- ------------------------- ------ 05538 1" ROLOC DISC PAD ASSEMBLY BOX OF 05539 2" ROLOC DISC PAD ASSEMBLY ONE (1) 05540 3" ROLOC DISC PAD ASSEMBLY
NOTICE: WHEN USING ANY ABRASIVE MATERIAL, PARTICULARLY ON ALUMINUM SURFACES, CARE MUST BE TAKEN TO AVOID DAMAGE TO THE SURFACE AREA. EXCESSIVE MATERIAL REMOVAL MAY RESULT IN DAMAGE TO SEALING SURFACES.


** THESE COMPONENTS CAN BE OBTAINED FROM LOCAL 3M(R) SUPPLIERS. THE BRAND NAMES "3M" AND "ROLOC" ARE TRADEMARKS OF MINNESOTA MINING AND MANUFACTURING COMPANY, ST. PAUL, MINNESOTA 55144.
PARTS INFORMATION:


PART NUMBERS DESCRIPTION ------------ ----------- 12346139, 12377981 SPRAY CLEANER
PARTS (SPRAY CLEANERS ONLY) ARE CURRENTLY AVAILABLE FROM GMSPO.
FIGURES: 01 ATTACHMENTS: 00
FIGURE 1 - 3M(R) ROLOC BRISTLE DISC IDENTIFICATION 1 - SHAFT (TYPICAL) 2 - BACK-UP PAD 3 - ROLOC BRISTLE DISC
Figure 1
GENERAL MOTORS BULLETINS ARE INTENDED FOR USE BY PROFESSIONAL TECHNICIANS, NOT A "DO-IT-YOURSELFER". THEY ARE WRITTEN TO INFORM THOSE TECHNICIANS OF CONDITIONS THAT MAY OCCUR ON SOME VEHICLES, OR TO PROVIDE INFORMATION THAT COULD ASSIST IN THE PROPER SERVICE OF A VEHICLE. PROPERLY TRAINED TECHNICIANS HAVE THE EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND KNOW-HOW TO DO A JOB PROPERLY AND SAFELY. IF A CONDITION IS DESCRIBED, DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE BULLETIN APPLIES TO YOUR VEHICLE, OR THAT YOUR VEHICLE WILL HAVE THAT CONDITION. SEE A GENERAL MOTORS DEALER SERVICING YOUR BRAND OF GENERAL MOTORS VEHICLE FOR INFORMATION ON WHETHER YOUR VEHICLE MAY BENEFIT FROM THE INFORMATION.
COPYRIGHT 1998. GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

I only mention it because it looks like you had a lot of plastic and metal shavings during the course of this rebuild. Did you by chance clean any of the mating surfaces of this engine? If so, GM says you REALLY need to make sure none of that stuff gets into the engine! LOL! Now we are even.



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Yes, I gave you that memo, and as you can tell by the staining and only factory machining marks that I lived by it and didn't use rolocks on the cylinder sealing surfaces.

 

6908831408_1419abbd59_z.jpgC

SELLC wrote:


 

"Looks like a real fine job, and it seems like you were able to re-use a lot of the internals. You dont see too many people re-using 171K slugs, but if they were spec'n out then why waste the $$."


 Now it's enough said

 



 


 



-- Edited by PowerStroker on Tuesday 15th of May 2012 09:38:35 PM

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I have to give PowerStroker the props for a job that looks pretty well done. Dayum !!

But, what I don't understand, is why one would choose -- of all things -- a SATURN (let alone a *modern* GM product) to do this work on. Why not something cool like a '63 Impala with a 327 Chev, or a '67 Cougar with a 390 or a 428 .... something INTERESTING at least. Even a Caprice Classic cop car with a 305 !!!

I bet if PowerStroker ever actually worked on a Mercedes, and started to grok how it was engineered and screwed together, he'd fall in love (and out of love with Ronald).



-- Edited by gerryvz on Tuesday 15th of May 2012 09:40:12 PM

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Thank you Gerry!

The answer to your question of why all the effort for this car is simple. My truck is running great so there's no need to take that apart at this time. This is my economical daily driver, and it was getting tired. I weighed the options and decided to fix it up. The effort I put in to this isn't really all that abnormal for me. I'm always in the process of rebuilding something, whether it be a vehicle, or a home renovation. I just decided to make a post of this one due to all of the unique procedures that were necessary to make certain aspects of it better than they were from the factory.

Actually I did work on my truck last week.  I did my own sprayed in bed liner, but that wasn't a unique enough project to warrant the creation of an entire thread to tell you all about it. 



-- Edited by PowerStroker on Tuesday 15th of May 2012 09:56:53 PM

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So i'm back to Gerry now? I actually just asked Administrator to change my username to Gerald because I liked it so much ! LOL!

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When you're being good it's Gerry, but when you're naughty it's GERALD

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PowerStroker wrote:

Yes, I gave you that memo, and as you can tell by the staining and only factory machining marks that I lived by it and didn't use rolocks on the cylinder sealing surfaces.

 

6908831408_1419abbd59_z.jpgC

-- Edited by PowerStroker on Tuesday 15th of May 2012 09:38:35 PM


 Damn shame you did not clean that surface properly while you had it all torn down. I don't imagine it would have taken any more time to clean than this mess,

Or even this mess,

But hey... If you like doing head gaskets a lot that's your business.

Again PowerStroker, roloc pads are for "cleaning" surfaces, NOT FOR MILLING THEM. I guess thats where you keep messing up.

Oh and by the way, just because a piston "Specs" out does not mean that the friction coating hasnt worn away, then again you did have to drill holes in the oil control lands because this beast was burning oil so bad. I'd like to see what that decision nets for results in say... 20,000 miles... I'm sure you will have the head off way before then replacing that head gasket and while you are in there you can check for cylinder wall wear from the lack of proper friction coating on them used pistons you used to overhaul the engine.

Aw hell, that engine has steel sleeves! The piston skirts will wear well before the cylinder walls, then the oil will just blow by and slip back thru them holes you drilled in the oil control ring lands! Excellent idea! 



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Everything went together clean.  I even bought white cotton rags to test the bores after cleaning the honing grit.  I was very meticulous.

How in the world did engines ever survive at all in the old days before anti-friction coatings?

I've already put 1500 miles on it and the dip stick still shows at the top of the normal range. In about a year and a half I should be around 20,000 miles. I'll let you know how it's doing.

On edit, I should mention the machine shop that rebuilt the head and hot tanked the block won't touch a roloc to a deck surface either.  Are they wrong?



-- Edited by PowerStroker on Tuesday 15th of May 2012 10:11:24 PM

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PowerStroker wrote:


Actually I did work on my truck last week.  I did my own sprayed in bed liner, but that wasn't a unique enough project to warrant the creation of an entire thread to tell you all about it. 


 I did a lot of jobs lately ... replacing fuel pumps, repairing a window regulator in my 560SEL, and replacing the coolant tank in my E500 with a new one. 

 

And I just recently got my hands on a Mercedes Star Diagnostic System (SDS), which is what the dealerships use. Bought a roller cart, laptop and spare printer for it - works with any MB from 1989 to the present !!



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That's kinda cool, I've never seen an Mercedes scan tool before.

Do you have to buy a software subscription to get updates like we do at Ford?

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PowerStroker wrote:

On edit, I should mention the machine shop that rebuilt the head and hot tanked the block won't touch a roloc to a deck surface either.  Are they wrong?



 *sigh*

...... Again..... Roloc pads are for "CLEANING"... Not decking, or milling.

no

Some guys....



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PowerStroker wrote:

Do you have to buy a software subscription to get updates like we do at Ford?

 You mean the updates your shops "OWNER" pays for? The one you're constantly ragging on in here? Because we all know YOU don't pay for them, just like you dont pay to have the hoist serviced, or the air compressors serviced, or hell, even the hand soap you use to wash your hands with at the end of the day.



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PowerStroker wrote:
Do you have to buy a software subscription to get updates like we do at Ford?

 Oh yes, right over the Internet. Easy download !



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What? No Saturns in that garage Gerry? ROTFLMMFAO!



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My gawd, GM products on my property would MAJORLY bring down my property value. I'd probably get run out of the neighborhood on the end of a stick !!

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SELLC wrote:

 You mean the updates your shops "OWNER" pays for? The one you're constantly ragging on in here? Because we all know YOU don't pay for them


 Actually I own my own IDS that I purchased myself because the two the shop owns are always either busy or broken.  I have a lot of things at work that they are supposed to provide for me but I find easier just to buy myself.

They do provide all of the Roloc discs I could ever use though, and nuts, bolts, rivets, hose clamps ect.  Our union contract stipulates such consumables are to be provided.  Since the owner takes 80% of the door rate and charges each customer a flat $50 shop supply fee on top, I would expect at least as much.



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I am sure he pays for the toilet paper too, which is a good thing because often times dealership techs are full of shit!

LOL!



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Yes, the toilet paper is provided, but most of us prefer the bidet anyway.

(A bidet is not a drinking fountin... Yeah, Brandee told me all about what you did).

The cost of ice cubes for the urinals, and tips for the towel boy comes out of our pay.



 



-- Edited by PowerStroker on Wednesday 16th of May 2012 11:10:27 AM

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$50 shop supply fee ?!?

Holy Moly, that's a lot of brake cleaner (or as Stoma believes, anal lube) !!!

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gerryvz wrote:

 I did a lot of jobs lately ... replacing fuel pumps, repairing a window regulator in my 560SEL, and replacing the coolant tank in my E500 with a new one. 

 


HOLY SHIAAAAAAAAAAAAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  CHECK OUT THIS WRENCH MONKEY GOIN ALL OUT WITH CHANGING OUT FUEL PUMPS!!!!! BETTER YET.............. THIS FAGGOT HAS THE KNOW-HOW TO REPLACE A COOLANT RESERVOIR TANK!!!!!!!!! THE FUCK DO YOU WANT??????? A COOKIE?????? HAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WHAT A FUCKIN FAG............. COMIN UP HERE AND POSTING SOME EASY SHIT TRYIN TO SHOW HIS MECHANICAL SAVVY IN A THREAT WHERE POWERSTROKER REDID A WHOLE MOTOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOU ARE A JOKE GAYRRY........... GET ON A BOAT WITH YOUR STOMETTE PERSONA........... PADDLE OFF TO THE MIDDLE OF AN OCEAN AND SINK BITCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



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SELLC wrote:

Oh and by the way, just because a piston "Specs" out does not mean that the friction coating hasnt worn away, then again you did have to drill holes in the oil control lands because this beast was burning oil so bad. I'd like to see what that decision nets for results in say... 20,000 miles... I'm sure you will have the head off way before then replacing that head gasket and while you are in there you can check for cylinder wall wear from the lack of proper friction coating on them used pistons you used to overhaul the engine.


It's been 24000 miles, and I'm only losing a quart between oil changes now, and the oil looks clean on the dip stick at the end of an oil change interval.  It used to consume more than 3 qts prior to the rebuild and would look like tar.  I didn't have to take the head back off, but my new aftermarket alternator took a shit last summer so I have an ACDelco one now.



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Hey PowerStroker,

Good work !!! Good pics, & awesome touches to to fail-safe the inherent faults with the Saturn. Some-one out there will very-much benefit for your post. I kind-of wish that the digital-camera boom was available "down-under" when I freshened up my old 308, as there would have been lots of laughs when you would have seen how many attempts & methods were used to remove a couple of broken cylinder-head bolts LOL ! Anyhow, the machine-shop removed them by drilling them out & re-tapping new threads & fitting heli-coils etc, plus new cam-bearings & hone. It's still going pretty-well also, & surprisingly drinks very little oil considering my pistons had lots of miles under their skirts as-well LOL !

Cheers,

Rastus

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PowerStroker wrote:
SELLC wrote:

Oh and by the way, just because a piston "Specs" out does not mean that the friction coating hasnt worn away, then again you did have to drill holes in the oil control lands because this beast was burning oil so bad. I'd like to see what that decision nets for results in say... 20,000 miles... I'm sure you will have the head off way before then replacing that head gasket and while you are in there you can check for cylinder wall wear from the lack of proper friction coating on them used pistons you used to overhaul the engine.


It's been 24000 miles, and I'm only losing a quart between oil changes now, and the oil looks clean on the dip stick at the end of an oil change interval.  It used to consume more than 3 qts prior to the rebuild and would look like tar.  I didn't have to take the head back off, but my new aftermarket alternator took a shit last summer so I have an ACDelco one now.


 

If you are happy with burning 1 quart between oil changes, well then all I can say is congratulations! LOL

*cough* too scared to play with the lower end *cough*

Anyway, I'm trying to figure out how I missed this thread for so long and all I can figure is I didn't have anything nice to say, so I just didn't say anything... LOL

That's got to be it! And hey at the very least, PowerStroker is honest.



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The vast majority of that quart loss in 3000 miles is just being sucked throught the pcv - not blowby. Regardless, my consumption is far less than what the factory considers acceptable. If your Benz uses even less than that, I congratulate you!



-- Edited by PowerStroker on Monday 6th of January 2014 02:22:50 PM

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PowerStroker wrote:

The vast majority of that quart loss in 3000 miles is just being sucked throught the pcv - not blowby. Regardless, my consumption is far less than what the factory considers acceptable. If your Benz uses even less than that, I congratulate you!


 A customer of mine with a 1996 Ford Contour with the Ztec 1.9 engine and 160,000 miles don't burn any oil between 3000 mile intervals.

So you claim the manufacture considers a quart loss between oil changes is acceptable on a rebuilt engine? Is that the same manufacture that claims using roloc pads are not recommended for rookies? I'm calling bullshit on both, and I'll tell that to any pencil neck over at GM world headquarts too!

As I have said before, my Mercedes has earned my respect... So much in fact that just the details of my service history would make you cringe, and Gerry would probably pass out... So yeah, congratulations are in order for my 300,000+ mile Mercedes engine. 



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How much oil is the Saturn burning?

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Just under a quart in 3000 miles, well within manufacturers specs but apparently not up to Rex's standards. 

I'm not losing any sleep over a failure to meet Rex's standards though.



-- Edited by PowerStroker on Wednesday 8th of January 2014 05:43:52 PM

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PowerStroker wrote:

I'm not losing any sleep over a failure to meet Rex's standards though.


 My 560SEC was burning about a quart every 3,000 miles before I did the top end 3.5 years (and 33,000 miles) ago. Mainly through the valve guides and seals.

:sel:

 

:nast:  Rex *HAS* standards?  News to me !!:banana:

 

 

 



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gerryvz wrote:
PowerStroker wrote:

I'm not losing any sleep over a failure to meet Rex's standards though.


 My 560SEC was burning about a quart every 3,000 miles before I did the top end 3.5 years (and 33,000 miles) ago. Mainly through the valve guides and seals.

:sel:

 

:nast:  Rex *HAS* standards?  News to me !!:banana:

 


Yes, it's obvious by the company I keep... In here anyway.



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