Don't you want a chance to explain that is not true or just a misunderstanding?  Maybe it really needed $12,000 worth of work.  Maybe there is an explanation.  Well here is your chance to clear this up.  I am not being like the rest of the guys and girl in here.  I am asking you sincerley.

Your pay me $12,000 and I'll tell you is childish and remins me of something a 20 year old oil change kid would say.

-Hey do you know who put the oil filter on my cart and made a huge mess while I was away at school?

-Hehe, I don't know Tommy Torque-Stick.  Maybe if you help me diagnoss this oil leak I can find out.

SELLC wrote:

---

 

If you were the customer I would explain.

I don't have to clear up shit. It has already been cleared up for over a year.

---

Cleared up with who exactly?  Your ability to justify things in your own mind doesn't exactly meet the standards of professional technicians.

I am always willing to explain any repairs I do.  It's a part of the business to help instill confidence in the customers that we actually know what we're doing, and can justify everything we do. 

Understand Rex, you got all of our attention when you started a post on another site where you needed help diagnosing a P2285 code on the vehicle you now own.  I think you are the only person in the history of the world who has needed more than $400 to resolve a P2285.  Granted maybe the truck needed other things too ie: exhaust leaks fixed, brakes ect.  But you went WAY overboard on the P2285 issue and delved into unrelated systems in a vain attempt to fix it.  These costs were passed onto the customer so you took the vehicle as payment.  This is how we understand it anyway, but Tommy is giving you an opportunity to set the record straight, so why not seize the opportunity and give us your side of the story.  Explain WHY you pulled the fuel tank out, Explain WHY you replaced the fuel pump, Explain WHY you replaced the fuel pressure regulator, Explain WHY you replaced the IPR.  Explain exactly WHAT was this alleged "contamination" that caused you to replace the FPR, and what were the symptoms and test steps that lead you in that direction.  Then you can post a photo of your alleged 6.0 rear main tools that I'm sure you don't actually own. 

Hell Rex, maybe I'm totally wrong about you.  Here is your chance to prove all of us wrong.

 

I have explained everything time and time again. I cant spend 60% of my time on each thread about this repair. If you take the time to read thru all the threads you will have a very clear understanding of the amount of work needed to fix this truck.

The same applies for PowerStroker.

I will tell you that actual cost of repairs was several thousand dollars less than the amount in question due to storage and some previous repairs. So its really not too hard to do the math, and if anything, you will find that my prices were very FAIR.

I dont need people to look up to me, I didnt open this forum for that. I also didnt open it to be given a hard time about the payment (truck) we recived for repairs. Some details of this truck can not be legally spoken of due to contractual agreements made to our BANK whom ultimatly covered the losses. 

My advice is to read the threads carefully. The repairs less financial and customer details are all covered within the threads of this forum.

Sure, now pick at my spelling. Whats next? You want a stool sample?

It would seem the "Idea" of a Mafia residing over the PSD should indicate your klans true desires to "Corner","Control" the market. Keep a lid on information. Only share the bare minumum to establish "Street/Forum Credit", take out the head hanco, dominate, then start feeding on each other...

Yeah that sounds a lot like the dealer to me.

You guys ever think about getting out of your powestroke shell for awhile? You might want to consider it, as many of you appear to be suffering from the onset of demensia. Read the effing threads, do the math, quit bitching.

My truck is a biscut, always breaking. I could spend more time fixing my 6.0 PSD than customer pay, then what? Take the truck from myself? This is pure BS, and really something thats going to get tossed in the Cafe so I may knaw on it with more candor. You effing mobster love to eat dont ya? Dont think I dont see you guys trying to milk a thread for a free steak.

Geez, I'm just trying to improve your grammar.  As professional technicians, we have an image to maintain.  Your backwater sentence structure and vocabulary may be good enough to impress the average Mercedes customer.  Powerstroke Diesel customers however, are generally classier folk, who appreciate the proper execution of the English language. 

SELLC wrote:

---

I have explained everything time and time again. I cant spend 60% of my time on each thread about this repair. If you take the time to read thru all the threads you will have a very clear understanding of the amount of work needed to fix this truck.

The same applies for PowerStroker.

I will tell you that actual cost of repairs was several thousand dollars less than the amount in question due to storage and some previous repairs. So its really not too hard to do the math, and if anything, you will find that my prices were very FAIR.

I dont need people to look up to me, I didnt open this forum for that. I also didnt open it to be given a hard time about the payment (truck) we recived for repairs. Some details of this truck can not be legally spoken of due to contractual agreements made to our BANK whom ultimatly covered the losses. 

My advice is to read the threads carefully. The repairs less financial and customer details are all covered within the threads of this forum.

---

I actually did read most of the threads.  They make you look pretty stupid.  By the way I'm not talking about your grammer or spelling.  I laughed out loud on the thread where you tried to explain the ICP and IPR.  An IPR with oil in the connector hahaha  that was a good one.  This forum is a mockery of what a forum is supposed to be.  Every single thread your getting ripped on for your hackery, buchery and general lack of knowlege of something that you think you are a expert at. 

I thought maybe there was an explanationb to the $12,000 repair that the bank had to bail you out of.  It looks like what the Powerstroke Mafia is saying is true.

I got the nickname Tommy Torque-Stick from my peers because I am really thourough in repairing cars and trucks and I like to make sure things are tourqued properly.  What kind of nick-names have you gotten from your peers?

SELLC wrote:

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People dont bother giving me a Pet-Name because most of my peeers are men, and we are not gay like you dealer guys.

---

Whatever you say Poohawk.

I used to work with a gay mechanic.  I'm pretty sure he's a better tech than you too... not because he's gay, but because he's smart.

Technical question #1 for you Rex: how did you clean the deck surface on this engine that you rebuilt?

Technical question #2: Would my gay mechanic friend say this is an acceptable technique?

-- Edited by PowerStroker on Tuesday 24th of March 2009 09:16:06 PM

SELLC wrote:

---

 

Deck surface of the engine was not in question. This engine was a super LOW COST overhaul. Customer would not spring for over-bore, line hone, deck resurfacing, or blueprint. This engine was a basic overhaul.

That's fine, I made no issue about that

Plain to see this engine is NOT a performance build. It was a freshend up and will seal without problems once the Roloc pad makes its final pass.

Herein lies the problem.  Using a Roloc is now universally understood to be an unacceptable way of cleaning gasket material from a deck surface

Guess what... I did that cross hatch... FREEHAND!

Yet it looked sooooo good you automaticlly thought the block went out for machieen work. LOL

Um, no.  It's a nice crosshatch - I'll give you that, but nothing that can't be duplicated by anyone with a fresh hone and a little technique.  As far as me thinking you sent the block out to a professional - the roloc marks made it obvious that whoever did this was far from professional.  You'd be better off hand scraping it.  It may not be as shiny that way, but at least the metal sealing surfaces will remain flat.

I'll bet you ran a roloc over the heads too didn't you?

---

 

Low spots are only one of the things you need to worry about with roloc discs.  Just because you have been doing something a certain way for a long time, doesn't make it right. 

#87-61-24: INFO. USE OF 'SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS' - (Apr 2, 1998)



MODELS: 1998 AND PRIOR PASSENGER CARS AND TRUCKS


THE USE OF "SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS" -
WHEN CLEANING ENGINE GASKET SEALING SURFACES, AND/OR CLEANING PARTS FROM AN ENGINE WHICH ARE TO BE REUSED; SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS (TYPICALLY A WOVEN FIBER PAD DESIGN) WHICH CONTAIN ABRASIVES, SUCH AS A HIGH AMOUNT OF ALUMINUM OXIDE, ARE NOT RECOMMENDED.
THE USE OF SUCH SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS DISLODGE ALUMINUM OXIDE (FROM THE DISC) AND METAL PARTICLES, WHICH CAN LEAD TO PREMATURE ENGINE BEARING FAILURE.
THE PRESENCE OF ALUMINUM OXIDE IN ENGINE OIL HAS BEEN SHOWN TO CAUSE PREMATURE ENGINE BEARING FAILURE. IN SOME CASES THIS FAILURE OCCURS IN AS LITTLE AS 1,000 MILES (2,200 KM) OR LESS AFTER THE REPAIR HAS BEEN MADE.
SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS MAY GRIND THE COMPONENT PART MATERIAL AND IMBED IT INTO THE DISC. THIS CAN RESULT WHEN MORE AGGRESSIVE GRINDING OF THE GASKET SURFACE TAKES PLACE. PROCEDURE: A NEW PRODUCT FROM 3M(R) AUTOMOTIVE AFTERMARKET DIVISION, THE ROLOC BRISTLE DISC*, IS NOW AVAILABLE WHICH ADDRESSES SOME OF THE ABOVE CONCERNS.
* WE BELIEVE THIS PRODUCT TO BE RELIABLE. THERE MAY BE ADDITIONAL MANUFACTURERS OF SUCH PRODUCTS. GENERAL MOTORS DOES NOT ENDORSE, INDICATE ANY PREFERENCE FOR OR ASSUME ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ITEMS WHICH MAY BE AVAILABLE FROM THIS FIRM, OR FOR ANY SUCH ITEMS WHICH MAY BE AVAILABLE FROM OTHER SOURCES.
CAUTION:

NOTICE: DUE CARE MUST BE TAKEN TO AVOID THE ENTRY OF ANY MATERIAL INTO THE ENGINE BLOCK OIL AND COOLANT PASSAGES WHEN CLEANING COMPONENT SURFACES.

THE PRESENCE OF FOREIGN MATERIAL IN ENGINE OIL HAS BEEN SHOWN TO CAUSE PREMATURE ENGINE BEARING FAILURE.
COVER OR BLOCK ALL ENGINE PORTS (ENGINE OIL AND COOLANT) AND OPEN AREAS (CYLINDER BORES, LIFTER VALLEY, ETC.) TO PREVENT POSSIBLE CONTAMINATION WHEN WORKING ON THE ENGINE.
VACUUM UP ALL CONTAMINANTS (I.E. DIRT, GASKET MATERIAL, ETC.).
GENERAL MOTORS BULLETINS ARE INTENDED FOR USE BY PROFESSIONAL TECHNICIANS, NOT A "DO-IT-YOURSELFER". THEY ARE WRITTEN TO INFORM THOSE TECHNICIANS OF CONDITIONS THAT MAY OCCUR ON SOME VEHICLES, OR TO PROVIDE INFORMATION THAT COULD ASSIST IN THE PROPER SERVICE OF A VEHICLE. PROPERLY TRAINED TECHNICIANS HAVE THE EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND KNOW-HOW TO DO A JOB PROPERLY AND SAFELY. IF A CONDITION IS DESCRIBED, DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE BULLETIN APPLIES TO YOUR VEHICLE, OR THAT YOUR VEHICLE WILL HAVE THAT CONDITION. SEE A GENERAL MOTORS DEALER SERVICING YOUR BRAND OF GENERAL MOTORS VEHICLE FOR INFORMATION ON WHETHER YOUR VEHICLE MAY BENEFIT FROM THE INFORMATION.
COPYRIGHT 1998. GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

http://classic.artsautomotive.com/misc.htm

http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=153761&page=3

-- Edited by PowerStroker on Wednesday 25th of March 2009 12:13:18 AM

Or just do it the right way with a scraper.  It's not about shininess, it's flatness that matters.  Stains in the metal are of no concern, but excess removal of metal can cause a huge concern.

-- Edited by PowerStroker on Wednesday 25th of March 2009 12:25:11 AM

SELLC wrote:

---

To me a stain in the metal is PROOF that there is still material on the surface.

Yeah, but it is below the level of the ultra fine machining scratches so it doesn't matter.  The modern way to do these things is to hand scrape with a scraper made of a softer material than the block/heads being cleaned and use a gasket removal chemical.  Then check for flatness with a straightedge.  Stains will usually remain, but if you can't feel them with your fingernail LEAVE THEM ALONE. 

Ill stick to my Roloc pads, used in the proper way, with proper cleaning, covering and always an oil change afterwards.

Your stubborn refusal to evolve is why the Mafia constantly attacks you.

You are aware there is a thing called an oil filter right? And you do understand that it has a micron rating, right?

Well shit, since there's a micron rated oil filter, we may as well use brake lathe shavings for an oil additive.  The filter will catch any chunks big enough to matter... Right?

That thing you posted above appears to be calling for use of a diffrent "Brand" of Roloc pad, and gives no specific application.

That is just one article out of many.  Try that fancy Google thing if you want more proof.

In some situations, where as there is a rubber gasket, I will refrain from using a Roloc pad. However given the ultra silicone found on the 7.3 PSD you almost HAVE to use a Roloc pad.

Ah suck it up and scrape it like a man.

They will have to pry my Roloc pads from my dead lifeless hands!

The Mafia can arrange for such things.

---

 

You gotta lean on the die grinder really hard to get a uniform surface on what you're cleaning.

SELLC wrote:

---

Big Angry Hillbilly wrote:

---

You gotta lean on the die grinder really hard to get a uniform surface on what you're cleaning.

---

 Thats only when your a Jew, trying to streach a single pad for two weeks.

-- Edited by SELLC on Thursday 26th of March 2009 09:18:47 PM

---

Fuck... first it was our gender.. What did you say about Ford Girl? Now it's our religion called to question... No - I'm not Yiddish - However, my friends include people from all walks of life.... some people bring me Kosher food on Sunday.

Ya done fucked yerself again...

It is obvious, even to the least experienced, that you assume things to be the way you think they should be.

Sit back... take a deep breath.... you cannot dig your way out of a hole...

 

    

PowerStroker wrote:

---

Geez, I'm just trying to improve your grammar.  As professional technicians, we have an image to maintain.  Your backwater sentence structure and vocabulary may be good enough to impress the average Mercedes customer.  Powerstroke Diesel customers however, are generally classier folk, who appreciate the proper execution of the English language. 

---

 

-- Edited by Ford Girl on Friday 27th of March 2009 09:35:12 PM

You misspelled "Grammar"....

Not lazy, just fuckin' BOMBED.

SELLC wrote:

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Oh sure... Pick on me for my spelling and grammer. Its about the only flaw you guys can find, so naturally, you cant resist.

---

 Well, your insistence to think in terms of voltage when you're trying to diagnose a problem involving a parasitic AMPERAGE draw could be considered another flaw.


You do realize that even the smallest of key off drains (like the clock, or radio preset memory) which only draws a few milliamperes, still will show 12 volts if you use a voltmeter.  For that matter every open circuit on your vehicle that isn't flowing any current will still show 12V if it's ground side switched.  Voltage aint your problem bub.  What you're seeing in your test light when it glows is AMPERAGE.

OOOOOOOOOOOHHHH and I thought of another one of your flaws Rex... 

You think this is ok to be used as a universal crank seal installer.





Don't try to deny it, Pogo told us all about your pick axe.

-- Edited by PowerStroker on Sunday 29th of March 2009 04:32:42 AM

PowerStroker wrote:

---

Well, your insistence to think in terms of voltage when you're trying to diagnose a problem involving a parasitic AMPERAGE draw could be considered another flaw.


You do realize that even the smallest of key off drains (like the clock, or radio preset memory) which only draws a few milliamperes, still will show 12 volts if you use a voltmeter.  For that matter every open circuit on your vehicle that isn't flowing any current will still show 12V if it's ground side switched.  Voltage aint your problem bub.  What you're seeing in your test light when it glows is AMPERAGE.

---

I understand in cases where there is a "SLOW" draw, one would want to break out the amp meter to get a bearing of just how much load is being put on the system, however in this case the draw was quite large and killed the battery overnight. Given the brightness of the test light its clear to see its drawing some major amps. A weak draw, or the kind of draw thats acceptable (THE KIND THAT SHOULD BE MEASURED IN MILLI-AMPERES) will be tested once the major draw has been eleminated. Using the test light makes monitoring the draw while pulling fuses MUCH EASIER. I dont expect you to know this since you spend all your time in a book, rather than under the hood.

 

I don't get hangovers. Never had one.