Need engine - Auto-Trend Repairs and Service Information Forums

SEL420 · Senior Guest

Need engine

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

I got a complete 560 engine w/ trans and everything I would swing a hell of a deal for.

I got photos and videos. I recommend putting new guides in just because thats the wise thing to do. If you want to install them I can include the new guides, or I can work something out to have them installed prior to delivery. Valve seals, Oil rail clips, whatever you fancy.

I got a video of the engine running as is -

Let me know, I even have a few block-off plates so I can set the engine up to work on non SLS vehicles such as your 420 SEL.

Rebuilt cost of just a 420 engine would be at least 3-4 times what I would ask I'm sure. I think these engines in long block form (less fuel injection and such) go from about $4-5k and that is on the low side from what I have seen. I know people have spent as much or close just getting the upper half's rebuilt!

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Yo SEL420,

An up-grade to a 560 would prove a "better-bang-for-your-dollar" hands down, especially if you left the 420 badges on your car LOL ! In all fairness though, there's nothing wrong with sourcing another 420 or rebuilding your original engine, just to keep things OEM so-to-speak. What happened to your original motor ? It's not the one in another thread elsewhere is it ?

Cheers,

Rastus

PS Whatever you decide to do, GET RID OF THAT STUPID POWER-ROBBING DRIVERS-SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD !!!

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

Yeah shipping to Texas would make this not so much of a deal as it would be less expensive to buy one out there.

The engine is just chilling at the moment in the car. I thought it was going to go into the 420 were working on but that is not the case anymore. I had the engine listed on eBay for awhile but apparently I have this uncanny nack for getting banned everywhere I go! LOL Hell I cant even return an item at AutoZone without getting tossed in the clink and banned! LOL

Anyway, I think going used will be your least expensive route. Have you done any pricing around for a re-man 420 long block? Don't forget about all them rubber items on the top end, they add up quick. That's why I suggest checking out local yards and such to see what they have complete

-- Edited by SELLC on Monday 23rd of September 2013 10:51:56 PM

SEL420 · Senior Guest

Hey SELLC,

I certainly appreciate the offer... and I do trust that, coming from you, I would have no worries. The logistics of it all is my immediate concern. I'm in the DFW area. To transport/ship the engine and have it installed would be a cost that's not in my budget. Sounds like a new engine, from anywhere else, won't be in my budget either. I started something that I can not finish and no one in the area will touch it after I tore most apart.

SEL420 · Senior Guest

Hey Rastus,

Yep.. it's the same one from other posts. As I was telling SELLC, I started something that I'm unable to complete and now, no one else will touch it. My father-in-law passed away almost a year ago. We drove it from AZ to TX and I had visions of, eventually, restoring 90% for my wife... but I'm WAY over my head.

I'm wanting to get the heads resurfaced; however, removing the timing chain scares the hell out of me as I just don't know anything about engines and have no business tearing this thing apart. Just trying to save on repair cost.... but all I have is a garage full of parts and a very upset wife!!?!??!

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Yo SEL420,

I went back & found ( I think ) your original post, & you mentioned removing the cylinder-heads for skimming...You didn't mention at all anything about any actual problems...Had you blown a head-gasket or something, it makes sense to remove & repair the fault etc, but you don't mention anything about any problem at all. ( The head-gaskets on the early 420's did develop a minor oil-leak on your passenger side head over time, leaking onto the exhaust manifold ). I would consider if there was no problems, just to re-fit everything that you've removed so-far ( with new gaskets etc of course ) & keep enjoying your vehicle. You don't fix anything unless it's broken ! ( However, since your rocker-covers are off, how are your timing-chain guides ? ).

Cheers,

Rastus

SEL420 · Senior Guest

Hey Rastus,

Yeah... long story there... my father-in-law passed away. Left my wife the car. We drove from AZ to TX. That was the LONGEST drive ever. In the middle of trip, changed out radiator and removed thermostat. By the time we got home the car was hissing, smoking, over heating. I figured that we had no money in it... didn't need it for transportation so why not fix it up for the wife. After reading post about possible problems, oil was milky, so I started taking apart with the thought of cleaning all parts and resurfacing the heads. Once I got to the part where I remove a link in the timing chain.. to remove the chain, I felt a little overwhelmed and scared to move forward.

Over my head... not sure what to do now and my wife has about had it (understandably so).

I know how great of a car this is and haven't given up just yet.... but ... I'm worried that once I remove that chain and don't mark proper positioning of 'drop dead center' .. current position of pistons, etc.... I'll be even worse off?!?!?

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Hey SEL420,

You've done pretty-well to get so-far already. Don't be afraid of the timing-chain ! Before you take-out the joining link, loosen the cam-shaft-sprocket securing bolts by using a spanner fitted behind the sprocket to stop the cam from turning, along with something to loosen the bolt, ( for removal later ), then go about taking out the timing-chain tensioner, it's located on the passenger side forward part of the engine, behind where the alternator was fitted. This allows for easy positioning and securing of your chain, as it will now have slack in it. You don't actually need to split the chain, unless you've decided to replace it. Don't worry too much about your timing marks, as you can assure correct positioning when you go about re-installing your cylinder-heads, as every component that needs to be "timed" has indicator / reference marks to set things to.

Oh yeah, you mentioned "drop-dead-centre"...This is actually a reference point to the position of the piston in relation to the bore...The correct term is Top Dead Center, or TDC, meaning that the piston is at the uppermost extreme height of its' travel, & alternatively, you have Bottom Dead Center, or BDC, which is where the piston is at the extreme lowermost part of its' travel within the cylinder bore.

Keep at it, don't give up, & best of luck,

Rastus

SEL420 · Senior Guest

Ok guys...

After finally removing the balancer... I decided to continue on with other parts to clean, possibly replacing... I"m almost certain that I'll need a new alternator?? I also decided to remove the AC compressor to clean. You would think that common sense says DO NOT REMOVE...as refrigerant is in there along with pressure!!... Unfortunately common sense was not home and.... after unscrewing the top 4 screws.. she blew refrigerant everywhere. I really hope i didn't ruin the compressor?!?!?!

Thought you guys might want a good laugh this evening..... I'm sure that I'll have more for you soon!

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Hi SEL420,

LOL !!! I'm sure you're not the 1st person that this has happened to...The compressor "should" be OK, but you're going to have to keep it clean & wrapped up with something to keep contamination away...- Plus you're gonna need a re-gas at some-stage.You could also save yourself a lot of time, money, & effort by getting yourself a Haynes ( or similar ) manual for your vehicle...The $50:00 odd outlay might just save you lots of time, stress & money ! Its' like having a mechanic there with you LOL. You could also grab a genuine MB manual for your car, but it might take a little while to get the hang of how it reads, as it's basically a direct translation from the German into English & well, it just takes a little while to get used to it.

Cheers,

Rastus

SEL420 · Senior Guest

Hey Rastus... I've been looking for that Haynes manual since I started. They make one for every make/model except for the 91 420 SEL!! Just my luck!

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Yo SEL420,

You "don't" actually need one for the 420 specifically...These MB M116's & M117 V-8 engines are all part of the same family...In other words, a manual in print for even a 350 or 450 SEL / SL etc will be all you need since the "methods" or sequencing of pulling things down or putting them back together is generally very-much the same, even though your engines components themselves, may be a little different than what's in the books pictures. Probably all you need is something to follow ( a guide ) & you'll be fine ! That's what these books are for. I would want to refer to the specific torque settings for your engine since it's all-aluminium, & may differ to a 350/450, - (when you get around to putting things back together), but everything else in that Haynes book will be the best guide you could have, next to a mechanic being there !

All mechanics had to go through some kind of training to get their skills to a certified level, & here in Oz we call it an apprenticeship, & it's completed over 4-years with Higher Education schooling included. We learned sometimes the hard-way like yourself, but the book showed us the proper-way to do things right the first-time with NO mistakes, all we had to do was follow it ! These acquired & hard-earned skills are what you pay for when you take-on the services of a mechanic, & are worth more than every cent you pay when you've found one that you trust or have confidence in. Taking things on yourself is admirable, but inevitably you're going to get into trouble, so get yourself the book, & you'll be able to post more about your successes than troubles !

Cheers,

Rastus

SEL420 · Senior Guest

As always Rastus, I really appreciate the info. I had figured as much (surprised that the local auto shop guys couldn't simply confirm this months back?!?!) Oh well, I'm excited to hear as I'm tired of printing off the internet.

Thanks again Rastus. Enjoy the day!

Tom

SEL420 · Senior Guest

The best I can find is:

Mercedes-Benz 350 and 450Haynes Repair Manual covering 350 SL Roadster, 450 SL/SLC Coupe and Roadster, 450 SE/SEL V8 Sedan (1971 thru 1980)

1971 - 1980 ?!!?!?!?

Thoughts?

Rastus · UNSTOPPABLE!

Hi SEL420,

That's the one !!! As far as the engine-side of things go, it should be all you need to keep you on track in getting the job done. I think that you'll still need to find the correct torque settings for your cylinder-heads on the re-fitting side of things, but have no-doubt that SELLC could easily provide you with this information. It's also possible that you may require a special allen-head socket for your cylinder-heads, but it'd been a long-time now for me since I did one of these motors ( even though I own one ), but I did complete my apprenticeship at an authorized MB dealership, & all the "special-tools" were on-hand, so I can't say that I remember exactly what you'll specifically need, but there's always another way to get things done ! Get the book, take your time to familiarize yourself with it, ( eg, read through it for a few days at least, you'll be glad you did & feel much more confident ), then enjoy successfully finishing what you started ! All the best.

Cheers,

Rastus

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

Last time I heard Mercedes Benz offeres their factory service manuals online for free. That's the great thing about Mercedes!

Plus you can access the EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog) for only .01 cent and get part numbers for anything you might need.

The link to both is here-

http://autotrend.activeboard.com/t33254705/free-mercedes-benz-epc-membership/

Check it out!

SELLC · CERTIFIED POST WHORE

FYI - The engine I offered for sale in this listing has been spoken for.

The 420 customer with the busted valves and guides sealed the deal and as such I no longer have a 560 engine for sale.

You can follow the progress of this engine at this link below,

http://autotrend.activeboard.com/t54333814/mercedes-benz-420-sel-timing-chain-valve-and-seal-replacemen/

Where the 560 engine shown in the video above is fitted into a 420 SEL "Sleeper" style. This means he is keeping his 420 badge even though this 420 will be sporting 5.6 liters! Pretty cool.