Yes folks, I suppose none of us should be shocked that a company that abbreviates it's name Ford Motor Company -- to simply FoMoCo to save on ink, would not stamp the brake line positions on it's ABS Pump/Modules.
Although I am shocked that the diagrams made available by AllData show an incorrect line placement!
This diagram that I downloaded from AllData shows the left front line position as #7... however, the line running from line #7 was going to the rear brake line @#4!
I have checked this several times, on the vehicle. Since all the lines are pre-bent as a set or "gang" -- I can assure you this is how it come from the factory.
At first I thought it was just me, and I didn't follow the line back properly... but then I was having issues bleeding the vehicle only to have limited flow at the left front when bleeding.
So I switched it the way the diagram has shown -- only to find brake fluid pumping out of the old rusted line that I cut on the left front when I went to bleed it!
That means that I did NOT make an error trying to follow the line back, as I had followed it correctly the 1st time back to the left front drivers side! The only problem was it was screwed into port #4!
Mind you, NONE of this would be a problem if Ford had just stamped the line location legend on either the aluminum or plastic part of the ABS Pump/Module like every other manufacturer!
The 2012 Ford Fusion is a very popular vehicle, it spans from 2006-2012 and is basically the same chassis as the Mercury Milan and Lincoln Zephyr (2006 only) then the Lincoln MKZ from 2007-2012.
ALL of these cars are known to have issues, particularly with the left rear calipers leaking -- and they are also all know for being an absolute PITA to bleed in cases where a brake line or caliper has lost all the fluid.
There are also some brake recalls...
But my question is -- did they mix up their own diagrams? Could all the problems with this brake system be from a improperly switched positioning of the lines to the ABS Pump/Module?
At the factory when they pressure bleed the system it might go un-noticed that they switched the lines. Or it could just be AllData with bad information!
There seems to be no distinction between either left or right on the rear lines -- as you can see in the diagram above.
I have worked on a LOT of these cars, especially in the braking systems replacing calipers and brake pads and rotors! I've done more than I can count on both hands sever times over!
I also own a 2006 Lincoln Zephyr and have found that during sudden hard braking the pedal goes hard and is not steady as you would expect for a car with ABS!
Could this be the REAL reason why Fords has had so many problems with this system? Could it contribute to the difficulties bleeding the system?
I have a scanner that allows me to run the ABS pump bleed system... I also have a vacuum pump, and I have bleed this system six times the traditional way. I've also taken off the master and bench bleed that unit and was satisfied with the flow so it's not a bad master.
This is the first Fusion/Lincoln/Mercury that I have had to replace an entire line on -- but I am sure I'll be seeing more as they are finally starting to rust out at the sections that are not painted/coated on the lines.
The vehicle has all new pads and rotors on the front, and pads, rotors and calipers (replaced under the lifetime warranty) because the right rear started leaking from the square cut seal when I tried to turn it back in.
So what I am saying is that I have already replaced all four calipers back in 2021 and the rear ones at the same time as I fixed the broken line above.
As I said, the ONLY reason I found myself in the situation is because
A) Fords can't be bothered to mark their ABS pump/module
B) The left front line had rusted and the leak was the reason it came in -- however it needed new pads and rotors too as they were almost metal to metal.
C) I replaced the left front after tracing back the line to the pump, but then could not get the system to bleed properly.
Once I started having problems with the bleed (having bleed MANY of these system with caliper replacements on many other of the same platform) I figured, "What the hell I'm getting old -- I'll pay for the All Data and see where I messed up"
Come to find out I didn't mess up! That line from the factory plugged into port #4 which is described in the AllData diagram above as being for the "rear"!
I even plugged the old line back in at the same port and sure as can be -- fluid just poured out of the old line that was cut up at the left front!
So something is not right here! Usually these vehicles with ABS (and most other modern cars) are proportioned differently from front to rear as the caliper pistons are bigger in the front than the rears -- and thus would need more volume.
Looks like Alldata just copied the Ford diagram, which is typical.
To answer your question as to whether they mixed up their own diagrams... Maybe. It wouldn't be the first time they had an error in a workshop manual. It's even more common in wiring diagrams - usually relating to wire color or pin location in a connector. As a dealership, there is a method for us to report errors in service information, but it rarely actually results in a correction being made due to the costs involved in correcting the data.
Welcome to Ford. Your best bet is to visually compare with your Zephyr if you still have it, or check Google images to see how the lines are routed on other cars.
If you have air in the system, which you do, you will need to first bleed all 4 corners with a PRESSURE BLEEDER. Then do the ABS service bleed procedure with the scan tool with the pressure bleeder still applying pressure to the system, and then probably bleed all 4 corners again with the pressure bleeder. If you still have issues, and the lines are verified to be hooked up correctly, and you don't have a stuck caliper, then you probably have a stuck or leaking valve inside the ABS HCU unit. Any used one you are likely to find probably won't be much better either.
... And don't buy the hand pump style pressure bleeder. For these cars you need one that you hook up to shop air and regulate it to a constant 30 psi and feeds from a nice big reservoir. Then you'll have a chance.
Looks like Alldata just copied the Ford diagram, which is typical.
To answer your question as to whether they mixed up their own diagrams... Maybe. It wouldn't be the first time they had an error in a workshop manual. It's even more common in wiring diagrams - usually relating to wire color or pin location in a connector. As a dealership, there is a method for us to report errors in service information, but it rarely actually results in a correction being made due to the costs involved in correcting the data.
Welcome to Ford. Your best bet is to visually compare with your Zephyr if you still have it, or check Google images to see how the lines are routed on other cars.
If you have air in the system, which you do, you will need to first bleed all 4 corners with a PRESSURE BLEEDER. Then do the ABS service bleed procedure with the scan tool with the pressure bleeder still applying pressure to the system, and then probably bleed all 4 corners again with the pressure bleeder. If you still have issues, and the lines are verified to be hooked up correctly, and you don't have a stuck caliper, then you probably have a stuck or leaking valve inside the ABS HCU unit. Any used one you are likely to find probably won't be much better either.
Yes Ford and the AllData diagram are identical...
Here is the ABS Pump I have been working with
This is probably the best shot I have above that shows all the lines and where they plug in...
in this photo I have my index finger on the Left Front line -- and it was ALWAYS the left front because that is the one I followed back visually prior to having the diagram. I even saved most of the old line, except where I had to cut.
There is a 3/16 line nut on it because I re-hooked it up after getting the diagram -- said diagram above says this port that I have my index finger on is for the REAR brakes! (#4 remember you're looking at it from the back pump side)
So this REALLY screwed with me... but that is just exactly how I put it back -- and I can assure you the lines were all factory bent lines in their gang! So something is not right, the diagram is not correct!
It also makes me wonder because there is no distinction on the Left or Right side for the rear! An ABS system should be ported to the corresponding wheel front or back, as the wheel speed sensor would command that wheel to auto-pump the brake if it detected a lock-up situation. Yes, I still have my 2006 Zephyr and I have ALWAYS felt the ABS in the winter was worse in terms of control than any other ABS car that I have driven... I even got snow tires for the Zephyr it was so bad! So perhaps that is why! It senses a lock up in the rear and it actuates the ABS for the front wheel -- and on and on!
I did manage to get the air bled out after almost two quarts of brake fluid and several days of bleeding and switching lines... that includes a master cylinder bench bleed, gravity bleed, computer activated ABS pump bleed, vacuum bleed at the bleeder port on the caliper and traditional pump-hold-bleed sequence. It was a BEAR and you are right all these systems on the 2006-2012 Ford Fusion, Mercury Milan and Lincon Zephyr/MKZ have this exact same ABS braking system. The way this brake system works is you have two lines coming off the master cylinder (on drivers side firewall) that snake around to the passengers side front where they run into the ABS Pump/Module. From there it feeds out a separate line to each wheel caliper. Due to this design I think it's very easy to get captive air in the system in situations where a line has rusted and leaked all the fluid out, or a caliper has failed and leaked all the fluid out.
It was only because I had to replace the left front brake line from the caliper to the ABS pump/module that I found out the diagram was wrong -- and that was only because I couldn't get it to bleed originally. The amount of messing around that diagram made me go thru is what upsets me... because who knows if the diagram is wrong, or every one of these cars is using a rear ABS port for the left front... it's easy to mix them up on a diagram -- but still! It's been 13 years, you'd think someone would have said something or at least updated the diagram! I just put the line back in exactly as it came in from the factory -- even though the diagram appears to be contradictory.
The pedal feels great now... the brakes work great too. Every once in awhile you get one of these with air trapped in it, and it takes a LONG TIME and a lot of trouble to get it out to where you can start building the pedal.
So glad it's done... I'm hoping I paid my Ford dues for the week and this Expedition turbo job will go easy on me! LOL
... And don't buy the hand pump style pressure bleeder. For these cars you need one that you hook up to shop air and regulate it to a constant 30 psi and feeds from a nice big reservoir. Then you'll have a chance.
I was looking into them earlier today as a last resort as I simply couldn't spend much more time fiddling with it... thankfully I was able to get the air pocket out and the system was able to push the rest of the air out.
I agree the hand pump style pressure bleeders look too weak to actually force out an air pocket... this one from MityVac -
It just does not appear to have enough power to flush out an air pocket with them clear fish tank pump lines -- not to mention the pump handle that you would have to constantly keep pumping. I seen this exact kit online for $300 from China on eBay -- and about $350 from other places. FYI
However the unit I would want is the Branick unit. This baby looks like it could hold over a gallon of brake fluid and make short work of any air pocket with compressed air. It's more expensive but just look at that tank and them quality high pressure lines! I have a Branick strut compressor and it's a quality piece! So if I had a big shop I'd probably invest in this so my guys could quickly power thru any air pocket BS.
So there it is...
On these cars the line diagram is at least inaccurate on the 2012 Ford Fusion with 4 cylinder engine. A power bleeder would help, but I was able to get the air pocket out after going thru about a half gallon using the methods I mentioned above in my previous reply. Hope that helps someone else out there... because that is why I take the time to post about this stuff.
